Importance of Friends and Family

IMG_6569
(Friends @ the Drakensberg Mountains)

After our lovely trip to Thailand, we returned to Pretoria where I hit the ground running. I immediately took off for a six week TDY in Gabarone, Botswana (flying home on weekends). In PEPFAR, we submit a Country Operational Plan (COP) each year, which describes every activity to be implemented at the facility, community and national levels. It’s a beast of an undertaking that is closely scrutinized every step of the way. Data demands are fierce, workloads are insane and tempers usually flare…

IMG_5041
(First stop, Lebo’s Soweto Bicycle Tour)

IMG_5053
(The beginning of our 4-hour bike tour)

IMG_5076
(Marshelle quickly making friends)

IMG_5226
(Mural on Vilakazi Street)

As a TDY’er, the COP process is especially challenging. For starters, you’re not familiar with the HIV program, the implementing partners, the inter-agency dynamics or the nuanced relationships that have been forged across government entities…you’re just lobbed into the mix and expected to get up to speed as quickly as possible.

IMG_5062
(Portraits from Soweto)

IMG_5063-1
(This little boy was ADORABLE!!!)

IMG_5107
(At the butcher)

IMG_5124
(A quick stop at one of the local restaurants in Soweto)

Fortunately, this is not my first go-around with the COP, but I now have a deeper appreciation of country context and the importance of building relationships before you start discussing budgets and strategic direction of the program.

IMG_5138
(Cooking Pap)

IMG_5165
(Getting too big for that seat)

IMG_5229
(Young dancers on Vilakazi Street)

IMG_5431
(Chilling out in Soweto)

Despite the grueling six weeks of long days and late nights, the carrot on the end of the stick was knowing that Marshelle, one of my cousins, was coming to Pretoria on the same day that the COP was due, thus celebrations all around!

IMG_5142
(Stopped for a sandwich)

IMG_5271
(Love this picture of Marshelle)

IMG_5188
(Antoinette Sithole – Hector Pieterson’s Sister)

IMG_5189
(The famous photograph that turned the tide of Apartheid)

IMG_5193
(Shopping on Vilakazi Street)

We absolutely loved entertaining Marshelle. This happened to be her first trip to the continent, so we wanted to make sure that ‘Africa got into her blood’, so to speak, and that she’d fall in love with its people and places.

IMG_4916
(Arts on Main – Johannesburg)

IMG_4923
(So hip and trendy)

IMG_4955a
(Beautiful Ndebele Woman)

IMG_4930
(Arts on Main)

IMG_4927

South Africa is just one piece of this enormous puzzle…each country has something unique to offer! I’ve lived on this continent for the last decade and I’ve barely scratched its surface. I’m still trying to cross destinations off my bucket list…climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, visiting the tribes of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley, roaming the Avenue of the Baobabs in Madagascar, trekking with mountain gorillas in Rwanda, witnessing the great wildebeest migration on the plains of the Serengeti, seeing the wonder of the Pyramids of Giza and discovering tropical paradise islands in the Seychelles. Anyone up for an adventure?!? I’m hoping to plan each of these trips over the next few years…

IMG_6317 (1)
(Marshelle getting in on the hip scene)

IMG_6464.jpg
(Marshelle and Joshua)

IMG_6335 (1).jpg

IMG_6506 (1).jpg
(More vendors at Arts on Main)

Meanwhile, I’ve already digressed. Upon Marshelle’s arrival, we immediately planned a bicycle tour of Soweto (South-West Townships), the largest township in South Africa. We love taking guests on this tour as it’s a fabulous introduction to South Africa’s complex culture and history!

IMG_6354 (1).jpg
(Artists of the jewelry)

IMG_6443.jpg
(Call me…)

IMG_6530.jpg
(Young musicians)

IMG_6382.jpg
(Amy & Joshua)

We rode through the historic district of Meadowlands, whose origin stems from the introduction of the Natives Resettlement Act of 1954, which formed part of the apartheid system of racial segregation. Ultimately, the aim of this act was to forcefully remove black people out of the vibrant and racially mixed Sophiatown in the center of Johannesburg and in to the township on the outskirts of Gauteng.
We also cycled through landmarks of the 1976 student uprisings, visited the memorial site of Hector Pieterson, and walked down the famed Vilakazi Street where Nelson Mandela and Bishop Desmond Tutu lived. Each time I do this tour and hear about the June 16, 1976 uprising, it fills me with great sadness.

IMG_5000
(Darren and Joshua)

IMG_5009
(More people watching @ Arts on Main)

IMG_5016a

IMG_5035
(Joshua celebrating his 7th birthday)

Events that triggered the uprising can be traced to policies of the Apartheid government. In 1974, South Africa passed the Afrikaans Medium Decree, which stated that all black schools must use a 50-50 mixture of English and Afrikaans in lessons. Afrikaans was designated as the sole language for certain subjects, including mathematics and social studies. The decree was decried by black schools and teachers’ associations on the practical basis that many black children did not speak the language, making teaching much more difficult. On a more symbolic level, however, Afrikaans was seen as the “language of the oppressor”.

IMG_4458
(Joshua and my fur babies)

IMG_4912
(Celebrating Carnival)

IMG_4883
(Amy & Darren)

IMG_4890
(An evening with good friends in Pretoria)

According to reports, “tensions in schools had been growing from February in 1976 when two teachers at the Meadowlands Tswana School Board were dismissed for refusing to teach in Afrikaans. Efforts to make representations to the education authorities were rebuffed, and in mid-May about a dozen schools went on strike, with several students refusing to write mid-year exams”.

IMG_5461.jpg
(Amy & Marshelle at Madikwe – before the rains)

IMG_5503.jpg
(I love the warthogs)

IMG_5514.jpg
(Gorgeous Kudu)

IMG_5538.jpg
(Family of elephants)

IMG_5589.jpg
(Cape Buffalo)

On 16 June, students from three schools – Belle Higher Primary, Phefeni Junior Secondary, and Morris Isaacson High – totaling anywhere from 3,000 – 10,000 students, marched peacefully to protest the government’s directive. The march was supposed to culminate at a rally in Orlando Stadium, but before they arrived they were met by heavily armed police who fired teargas and later live ammunition on the demonstrating students. No one knows who gave the first command to shoot, but the day ended in bloodshed.

IMG_5630.jpg
(Gorgeous lighting)

IMG_5649.jpg
(Weather made for an amazing sunset)

IMG_5754.jpg
(Giraffe)

IMG_5838.jpg
(Elephant crossing)

IMG_5897.jpg
(Love the B&W of elephants)

IMG_5889.jpg

IMG_0051.jpg
(Flat tire in the rain – notice how the people in the back didn’t even get out of the vehicle)

Though many children perished in the violence of the Soweto uprising, the image of Hector Pieterson’s sister, Antoinette, running alongside 18-year old Mbuyisa carrying the limp and blood-stained body of Hector Pieterson served as the touchstone for international outrage. Sadly, the photographer, Sam Nzima, was punished with 19 months of house arrest following the publication of the image.

IMG_6017.jpg
(Aurora, Maria and Marshelle @ Chameleon Village in Hartebeesport)

IMG_6024.jpg
(Our family unit)

IMG_6084.jpg
(Joshua feeding the Lemur)

IMG_6147.jpg
(Marshelle feeding the lemurs @ Monkey Sanctuary)

IMG_6250.jpg
(Love lemurs!!!)

IMG_6090.jpg

IMG_6273.jpg
(Lovely day out in Hartebeesport)

On this particular day, we happened to run into Hector Pieterson’s sister, Antoinette Sithole, who continues to give tours at the Hector Pieterson Museum 42 years later. The famous photograph of her running alongside Mbuyisa Makhuba holding her dying brother marked the turning point in the struggle against apartheid. Even though it took another 14 years for Nelson Mandela to be released from prison, and another four years after that before the apartheid regime was finally overthrown, the Soweto uprising was an important moment in the struggle for equal rights.

IMG_6585
(Road Trip to Drakensberg)

IMG_6635
(Good friends and long weekends…)

IMG_6655
(Marshelle and Aurora were instant friends)

IMG_6551
(Loved the views of the Great Escarpment)

IMG_6566
(Mother and Daughter)

Meanwhile, that was simply day one of Marshelle’s exposure to South Africa

IMG_6814
(Krina and Silvio)

IMG_6888
(Royal Natal National Park)

IMG_6936
(Hiking in the Royal Natal National Park)

IMG_6994
(stopping at a cute place for coffee)

IMG_7006
(Maria’s always making us laugh)

We continued her Johannesburg tour with Arts on Main, a hip and trendy section of the Maboneng Precinct. This is one of my favorite places to go on the weekend. It’s where you can truly experience the creative genius of the city! Food stalls offering amazing organic produce, home-baked fares, fresh juices, sushi, Ethiopian food, paella, and an endless array of ethnic cuisines are available. Plus it’s an amazing place to people watch, a true melting pot of all walks of life. Definitely an interesting juxtaposition from Soweto.

IMG_7030

IMG_7066
(A theme with these two 🙂

IMG_7101
(loved this miniature horse)

IMG_7208 (1)
(Road got a little sketchy with the rains)

IMG_7221
(Such a fun crew)

IMG_7274

IMG_7295
(Aurora)

And no trip to South Africa would be complete without going on safari. We loaded up my Jeep and headed to my favorite game reserve, Madikwe! Unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate and we suffered through torrential downpours while driving around, cold and wet, looking for animals.
Despite the miserable weather, we still managed to have a great time! Plus it was a fabulous introduction to the world of African safaris for Marshelle – who actually went to Kruger a few days later (and had better weather).

IMG_7321 (1)
(The road to our game ranch)

IMG_7286
(our cars took a beating)

IMG_6797

IMG_7469

IMG_7509
(Friends)

IMG_7644 (1)
(Clarens)

For the long Easter weekend, a rather large group of friends road-tripped to the Drakensberg. The entire region is simply gorgeous, with incredible views of the Great Escarpment.

IMG_8003a-1
(Rhino and Lion Park)

IMG_8042
(Zebra)

IMG_0130
(Marshelle with Annabelle, the cheetah)

IMG_7878
(feeding the cheetahs)

IMG_8161

IMG_4576
(Lions)

IMG_4739

IMG_4700
(Cheetahs in the grass)

IMG_4723

IMG_4851
(Baby cheetahs)

IMG_4845
(Cheetahs playing)

We rented a four-bedroom self-catering chalet deep in the hills at Kwaggashoek Game Ranch. The weather wasn’t the best…we had high hopes of hiking, but with the intermittent rains we used our chalet as a base and ventured out on day trips to various destinations. Evenings were spent chilling around the lodge, cooking together, drinking wine, playing games and laughing all the while.

IMG_8958
(Back in beautiful Cape Town)

IMG_8357
(Lovely sunset cruise with beautiful views of Table Mountain)

IMG_8280
(Back to my favorite city in the world, Cape Town)

IMG_8513
(Hiking to Cape of Good Hope)

IMG_8537

IMG_8567

IMG_8582

Each day was a mini-adventure. There is so much to see and do in the Drakensberg, from endless hiking trails to cool little boutique shops and restaurants to endless supplies of gorgeous views and vistas. We truly had an amazing time.

IMG_8590

IMG_8614

IMG_8665

IMG_8662

IMG_8676
(Obligatory picture at Cape Point)

And since Marshelle couldn’t make it to our wedding, we traveled to Hartebeesport in the heart of the Magaliesberg mountain range where we stopped by the Chameleon Village for a souvenir shopping spree, followed by an amazing day at the Monkey Sanctuary! Each of us was given a big bowl of fresh fruits and vegetables where we proceeded to feed the lemurs, capuchin monkeys, squirrel monkeys and spider monkeys.

IMG_8752
(Markers)

IMG_8755
(Cape of Good Hope)

IMG_8801

IMG_8877

Upon our return, I took Marshelle to the Rhino and Lion Park. For those of you who haven’t visited us, there’s a remarkable game park an hour outside of Pretoria that we absolutely love. It’s a self-drive safari within a relatively small reserve…the animals are healthy and well fed. If your time is limited, it’s the perfect day trip! It truly feels as if you’re in the heart of the African savannah.

IMG_8902
(Darren with his cousins)

IMG_8931
(Darren, Heidi and Charlene)

IMG_8929

IMG_8908

IMG_9187
(Darren, Frank, Dale & Antoni)

IMG_9165
(The Korunich Boys)

We saw so much wildlife, from wild dogs, cheetahs and lions to zebras, rhino and warthogs. Ironically, this was Marshelle’s favorite spot – she liked it more than Madikwe and Kruger! Ha, had I known we could’ve saved her a lot of money

IMG_8980
(Table Mountain)

IMG_8978
(My gorgeous husband)

IMG_9007
(So beautiful at the top)

IMG_9048

IMG_9019

IMG_9074
(So many beautiful views)

Soon thereafter, we said our good-byes. We absolutely loved having Marshelle stay with us. Plus, after living overseas for more than a decade, I really miss family! And when we go home to visit, there’s usually a large family reunion – which is great, but you don’t get that personal one-on-one time with loved ones! After three weeks together, our relationship transitioned from distant relatives to close friends…which is the greatest gift one could ever ask for!

IMG_9105
(Lions Head)

IMG_8969
(Shadows on the mountain)

IMG_9141
(Table Mountain from below)

IMG_9064

And speaking of the importance of family, Darren and I flew to Cape Town to meet up with his. This trip was exceedingly special as I met his cousins for the very first time; and we reunited with Dale and Antoni after being apart for four years. I’m sure Frank was thrilled to have both of his sons together again! Family is so important. I’m delighted that we had an opportunity to all be together.

IMG_9299
(weekend in Swaziland, AKA eSwatini)

IMG_9199 (1)
(View from our lodge @ Ematjeni in Mbabane)

Version 2
(An Ngwenya Glass)

IMG_0329
(Hland Royal National Park – Swaziland)

Meanwhile, no trip to Cape Town would be complete without a few obligatory touristy outings. We took the cable car to the top of Table Mountain; we drove to Cape Point and hiked across to the Cape of Good Hope; and we even did a sunset cruise at the V&A Waterfront. It doesn’t matter how many times I return to this amazing city, it never gets old! I’ve said this time and time again, but Cape Town remains my favorite city in the world!

IMG_9355 (1)
(Lions in Hlane National Park)

IMG_9760
(White Rhino)

IMG_9512

IMG_0283
(Safari Vehicle)

IMG_9622
(More Rhino)
IMG_9553
(And MORE rhino)

Two days after returning from Cape Town, I traveled to Swaziland for two weeks for work. I’m in the process of providing technical assistance on their national Client Management Information System and working with the developers on ways to improve the user interface.
Darren drove to Swaziland, or should I say eSwatini (as the King just changed the name of the country), to meet me! We spent an amazing few days exploring the sites.
IMG_0314
(Swazi cultural village)

IMG_9963
(Symmetry)

IMG_0284bw

IMG_0029
(What a kick)

IMG_9933bw

We went to the Royal Hlane National Park where we saw thirteen rhino around one watering hole! I’ve never seen so many rhino in one place at the same time! Magical!

IMG_0369
(Waterfall at Mantenga)

IMG_0342
(Hut of the elder)

IMG_0349
(Inside the hut)

IMG_0311

And I went to the Swazi Cultural Village in Mantenga, a living museum of old traditions. My favorite is watching the cultural dancers.

IMG_9831
(Amy & Darren in Mbabane, Swaziland)

I have many more things to discuss, but I may stop for now.

Sending much love to all,

Amy

Leave a Reply

 

 

 

You can use these HTML tags

<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>