Fifty Years Strong!

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(Celebrating our 50th Birthday in Tikal)

Wow, it’s been nearly a year since I’ve updated my blog – so many changes are afoot that I don’t know where to begin. I’ll try to pick up where my last entry left off, which takes me back to Lesotho and Malawi for work, my 50th birthday celebrations, more outings at Karabo Asara orphan center plus many, many more adventures! I seriously doubt I’ll be able to cover all this territory, but let’s see how far it goes…

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(Crossing the river in Lesotho to reach a health facility)

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(The people of Lesotho are so nice)

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(Gorgeous vistas in Lesotho)

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(More people on horseback than in cars)

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(Traveling to one of the rural health clinics)

Work has been keeping me busy! I’ve returned to Lesotho numerous times – which is rapidly becoming one of my favorite countries in Southern Africa. The people are warm and friendly; and the countryside is unparalleled in its pristine natural beauty. The mountain air is crisp and clean, and the vistas are breathtaking everywhere you turn. It feels surreal, as if we’ve traveled back in time to the Wild West…where people are more likely to ride horses than cars!

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(Bourke’s Luck Potholes)

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(Blyde River Canyon)

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(Beauty of Mpumalanga)

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(Road trip with friends to Mpumalanga)

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(Three Rondavels)

Roads are rough; hence travel is slow-going! For such a small country, I’m amazed how long it takes to travel from point A to point B. On average, it takes three hours of treacherous driving to reach a rural health facility within a single district! Yet, knowing the difference we make in people’s lives makes the journey worthwhile.

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(Jacaranda’s in bloom in Pretoria)

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(Experimenting with my lens ball)

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(Maria’s birthday celebration)

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(Love Maria)

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(Friends in Pretoria)

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(Joshua playing with bubbles)

The only other country that rivals Lesotho’s beauty is Malawi. As a Regional Technical Advisor, I’ve spent more time in Malawi than any other country, which makes me happy! I have been providing leadership and technical support to the National Strategy for Adolescent Girls and Young Women (AGYW). Ultimately, we are trying to establish a formal governance structure at national and district levels for AGYW; to develop a standardized referral and linkage system for AGYW services; and to strengthen utilization and functionality of One Stop Centers for AGYW and their male partners.

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(Amy & Mina at Liwonde National Park in Malawi)

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(Hippos)

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(More Hippos)

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(And more hippos in front of Kuthengo Camp)

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(Fish Eagle)

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(Kudu)

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(Elephants)

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(Egret hitching a ride)

Multi-sectoral responses are often challenging, but we continue to make progress! I’m truly proud of the work that we’ve accomplished in this arena, granted funding remains one of the limiting factors. At least the team is finally at a stage where they can secure resources from donors and different government entities.

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(Christmas at Karabo Asara – handing out presents to all the kids)

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(And preparing an XMas feast)

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(The women in the community saying thanks with a dance)

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(And the children make it all worthwhile)

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(Philemon dancing for the kids)

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(So grateful for my friends who continue to help with the orphan center)

One perk of my on-going work in Malawi has been an ability to maintain relations in two communities in Senga Bay, Chingumukile and Mchengawamoto. With each return trip, I bring hundreds of photos to disseminate, gifts for the village chiefs, candy for the children and lots of love for all. It’s been incredibly rewarding to get to know so many people in these communities.

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(The village chief and his wife in Mchengawamoto)

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(Peeking out the window)

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(All smiles)

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(Love all the kids)

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(stoic matriarch)

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(Family in Chingumukile)

I’m often paraded through the village, going house to house to photograph newborn babies with their moms and other family portraits. For most, these are the only image they will ever receive! The smiles on their face as they physically hold their image in their hands is priceless…if only we lived closer, I would do more to alleviate poverty in these communities. They definitely lead difficult lives…Malawi remains one of the poorest countries in the world, with their GDP per capita at $342/year!

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(Reuben – the young boy (now young man) that I sponsored in Malawi – so proud of all that he’s accomplished)

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(My AGYW team in Malawi)

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(Met up with work colleagues in Guatemala – Thanks, Ingrid!!!)

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(And more friends in Guatemala – nice to have friends all over the world. Loved seeing Stacie and Jahne in Antigua)

And in other big news, I celebrated my 50th birthday in January! FIFTY! That officially seems old…from being born in the days of Lyndon B. Johnson, our 36th President of the USA, to celebrating half a century with Donald J. Trump, aka number 45, at the helm. Wish I could say that we’ve come a long way…but will refrain from politics in this post.

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(Stopped at random churches)

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(Loved photographing on the streets)

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(Mayan woman)

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(early morning vendor)

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(Quinceañera)

Seeing that fifty is a huge milestone, we spared no expense with the celebrations – backpacking in Guatemala, a birthday bash in Austin and culminating into a trip to my second home away from home, Treasure Beach, Jamaica!

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(The main square early morning – before the crowds)

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(The TWINS celebrating our 50th)

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(Love the buses in Guatemala)

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(Exploring the markets)

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(Loved this market vendor)

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(David and Siham)

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(The crew in Antigua)

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(Siham and Jazzy at Hotel Museo Casa Santo Domingo)

Most of you know that I have a twin brother, David, but what may be a more obscure fact is that his wife, Siham, also shares our birthday! Thus, many reasons to celebrate over the holidays.

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(Toucan sighting within five minutes of arriving in Tikal)

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(David and his crew on top of Temple IV)

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(Exploring the Grand Plaza)

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(Selfie Stick)

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(Amy & Darren on Temple IV)

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(Performing ancient rituals in Tikal)

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(Lensball)

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(Amani and Sami)

David, Siham, Amani (Jazzy) and Sami Amir joined Darren and me in Antigua, Guatemala for the beginning of our 50th birthday celebrations. I haven’t been back to Guatemala since my backpacking days nearly thirty years ago (oh how I miss my 20s)…but it was equally as fascinating and fabulous as I remember.

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(Sunrise @ Lake Atitlan)

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(Boat taxi across the Lake)

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(Local Woman)

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(The famous artist holding a picture of the original painting that currently hangs in David’s house)

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(David and Sami Amir’s paintings)

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(Our painting)

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(Tuk-Tuks in Guatemala)

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(Beautiful views)

We started off our journey in the central highlands of Guatemala, known for its Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture and old colonial ruins. We stayed at the world renown Hotel Museo Casa Santo Domingo, which once served as a stronghold for one of the largest convents in the Americas. The monastery was partially destroyed in an earthquake that struck Guatemala back in 1773. The hotel has preserved much of its original architecture from the baroque period of ancestral America and contains a number of treasures from this period on display throughout its many museums. Staying at this five-star hotel reminded me just how far I’ve come since my youthful days of dormitory rooms and communal toilets.

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(David and Jazzy)

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(Approaching our hotel via water taxi)

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(Gorgeous girl)

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(Hat anyone?!?)

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(Loved all the textiles)

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(And the jewelry)

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(Awesome cowboy)

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When the ‘twins’ get together, we often go on photography sprees! And Antigua was the perfect backdrop for exploring ancient streets and cultures with our cameras in tow. We spent hours walking up and down the cobblestone roads, photographing the Arco de Santa Catalina (the iconic archway dating to the 1600s), the famed Iglesia de La Merced, the 18th century church, and even going to the scenic outlook, Cerro de La Cruz. We meandered through markets, ate street food and enjoyed each other’s company.

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(Famous steps of Santo Tomas)

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(Vegetable Market)

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(Fresh tortillas)

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(Cemetery)

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(Beautiful girl on the steps of Santo Tomas)

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(Traveling with the family)

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(Masks)

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(Shaman)

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(Flowers for sale)

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(My favorite picture of Darren in Chichicastenango)

We then flew to Tikal, the ancient city and ceremonial center of the Maya civilization. We had the luxury of staying at the lodge inside the park, so we could easily walk back and forth to the ruins (again, a far cry from my backpacking days where the closest place I could afford to stay was the nearby town of Flores).

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(New Years Eve in Antigua)

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(Happy New Year)

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(Boomerang)

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(Siham and Jazzy)

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(Fire Hazard)

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(Amy & Darren on NYE)

Within five minutes of our arrival, we spotted two toucans! It was as if we had channeled our mother…in our heads, we could hear her screaming with joy and excitement! David and I took it as a good sign.

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(Laundromat)

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(Communal laundry)

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(Stunning architecture)

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(Picturesque Towns)

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We then spent the next two days exploring the ruins of Tikal. I loved seeing Amani and Sami Amir’s excitement and reactions as we descended upon the most spectacular part of the ruins, the Great Plaza. To sit in the middle of the grounds, surrounded by views of Temple I (Temple of the Great Jaguar), North Acropolis, Temple II (Temple of the Mask) and Central Acropolis is simply magical. It’s difficult to imagine what life was like during the pre-Columbian Maya civilization…or to think about the number of human sacrifices to the gods that occurred right where you were standing.

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(Siblings)

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(Birthday Party Barge)

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(Uncle Steve)

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(Catching up with friends in Austin)

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(Hula Hut days)

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(Everett and Tracey)

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(Family)

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(Birthday Twins)

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(Family)

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(Padre)

We eventually worked our way to Temple IV (Temple of the Double Headed Serpent), the tallest (230 feet) and most voluminous building in the Maya world, where we felt compelled to ascend. No trip to Tikal would be complete without climbing this famed temple…views from the top are breathtaking – green, dense jungles for miles, with temples peeking through the trees like Mount Kilimanjaro peeking through the clouds.
Next stop, the stunningly beautiful Lake Atitlan – a magical place on earth! This famed body of water sits in a massive volcanic crater, ringed by steep, verdant hills, striking conical volcanoes and speckled with Mayan villages along the coast.

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(Amy and Alessandra)

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(Austin Sunset)

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(Padre and Shasta)

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(Merryland)

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(Happy Birthday, David and Siham)

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(Arlene and Tina)

Darren and I stayed at La Casa del Mundo, a remarkable hotel perched high on a secluded cliff accessible only by boat. David and his crew stayed across the Lake at Posada de Santiago, a mere boat taxi ride away.

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(Welcome to Jamaica)

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(Quest!!!)

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(Collins)

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(Jessie’s husband)

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(Calabash Bay)

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(Eggy)

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(Vicas)

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(Eric and Darren)

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(Miss Ruby)

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(Trudy Ann)

We spent several days exploring Lake Atitlan and its surrounding area via taxis, tuk-tuks and by foot! Years ago, my brother commissioned a painting by an artist in Lake Atitlan. We managed to track down the same artist, twenty-five years later, to purchase another amazing work of art.

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(Went back to Sandy Bank Basic School to say hello)

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(Guilty!!!)

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(Darren and Rhonda)

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(Bozzy and Paul)

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(Owen)

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(The Boys)

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(Reds)

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(My favorite chill spot)

I think I inherited the collector’s gene (I come from a long line of art/antique collectors)! As an aside, artwork brings me such happiness – each piece is a conversation starter with memories and feelings associated with when and where it was purchased. And what better way to commemorate half a century than with a timeless piece of art!

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(Rebecca and Amy – Celebrations on January 9)

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(Angela!!!)

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(Preston and Kimberly)

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(Desmond!!!)

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(Eric, Celeste and Guilty)

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(Miss Ruby and her “daughters”)

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(So many people I love in Treasure Beach)

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(Gorgeous Sunset)

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(Bonfire)

From Lake Atitlan, we worked our way to Chichicastenango, the largest market in Guatemala! I have fond memories of this market from my backpacking days long ago. I vividly recall the vendors selling handicrafts, food, flowers, pottery, wooden boxes, textiles, animals, medicinal plants, you name it! And I was pleased to see that the market has remained unchanged…as if time stood still.

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(Jason)

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(Jason arranged a special birthday dinner for me at Jakes)

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(Troy!!!)

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(Vicas)

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(Boat Trip)

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(Dolphin)

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(Calm seas)

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Amy and Darren @ Pelican Bar

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(Selfies)

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(Andy – one of why favorite people in the world)

Vendors from across Guatemala come to Chichicasatenango to sell their wares at the market, and many center around the 400-year-old church of Santo Tomas, with flower vendors and Maya priests adorning the steps for their ritual of burning incense and candles. The sight is definitely picture-worthy!

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(Black River)

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(Black River Boat Cruise)

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(Lensball Rope swing)

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(Pelican Bar)

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(Floyd – the owner of the famous Pelican Bar)

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(Pelican Bar)

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(The bar sits in the middle of the sea – on a sandbar)

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(Eric and his friends)

The vendor stalls stretch for miles! We worked our way to the center of town to the indoor vegetable market – an amazing display of brightly colored fruits and vegetables that could be photographed from a balcony above the fray. Definitely an iconic image of Chichi…
We spent all day walking up and down the streets, weaving in between the textiles, masks, jewelry, tapestries, and food stalls!

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(Congratulating Sand Bank Primary School for winning the island-wide recycling competition)

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(Daren, Jason and Miss Moxam – the legends of Treasure Beach)

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(School girls at Sandy Bank – felt like I was reliving my Peace Corps Days)

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(Loved going to the school)

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(Love the hair)

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(More time with Miss Ruby)

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(Lovers Leap)

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(Trudy Ann – at her new job at Lover’s Leap – so proud!)

We worked our way back to Antigua’s famous Porta Hotel for New Year’s Eve. We ate like royalty, danced to local music, and then hit the ancient streets to ring in the New Year! Large crowds gathered at Calle del Arco (the famous arch) to watch the fireworks. It became a bit claustrophobic as one could barely move through the sea of people. But it didn’t hinder our ability to admire the fireworks in the skies above. Although the evening was marred by the fact that David’s iPhone was stolen among the hordes of pick-pocketers.
Unfortunately, this year’s celebrations were marked by a different kind of tragedy.

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(Awesome Tree)

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(Sunset at Jakes)

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(Lovers Leap)

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(Eggys)

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(Coot)

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(Chris’ Dad)

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(Buttonwood Tree)

The big crowd pleaser of the night was sky lanterns, a small hot air balloon made of paper, with an opening at the bottom to suspend a small fire. These fireballs are released into the sky, but their flights are often short lived, landing on buildings or into the crowds…a disaster waiting to happen!

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(Congo’s Village in Senga Bay)

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(The Chief of Chingumukile)

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(The Chief and his wife in Mchengawamoto)

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Version 2

As hundreds of New Year’s Eve revelers partook in lighting sky lanterns (us, too), I kept thinking that it was only a matter of time before catastrophe strikes. And true to form, one of these lanterns started a fire in the historic part of town! The narrow streets and enormous crowds hindered the firetruck’s ability to put out the fire…and soon entire city blocks were engulfed in flames!

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(Tobacco Season)

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(Tobacco growers)

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(Tobacco)

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(Bath Time)

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(Siblings)

The next day we returned to investigate the damage and were saddened to see charred ruins of what used to be vibrant restaurants, souvenir shops, boutique stores, etc. My heart ached when I thought about the loss of history as well as the devastation to the shop owners who may never recover from this sort of devastation. Those sky lanterns never should have been allowed in Antigua – I hope they are banned everywhere in the future.

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Version 2

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We flew to Austin to continue the festivities with friends and family! Our 50th served as a catalyst for another family reunion, with relatives far and wide flying to Texas to celebrate the occasion. Even my sister made a surprise appearance from Geneva (I had NO idea she was coming), which is remarkable considering that we were only in town for the weekend…

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(Tough life in Malawi)

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(Children playing in the village)

We rented a huge boat/barge, loaded it up with 150 of our dearest friends and family and spent hours cruising up and down Lake Austin, enjoying each other’s company with the Austin skyline all around. Granted, our stay in Austin was too short! Darren and I only had the weekend in Austin before working our way to Treasure Beach, Jamaica, my second home! We hadn’t planned on squeezing in this trip, but one conversation with Miss Ruby changed that.

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(Happy to have their photos)

Miss Ruby, who is like my second mother, chastised me over the phone for waiting so long to visit (it’s hard when you live in South Africa). She reminded me of her old age (89) and that it was her wish to see me one more time before (God forbid) anything happened to her. I immediately purchased tickets the second I hung up the phone…life is short and it’s important to spend time with those that you love!
Darren and I flew to Montego Bay, rented a car, and worked our way to Treasure Beach for a week of Caribbean sunshine. I was ecstatic to introduce Darren to everyone and everything I love in Jamaica.

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(Serious erosion threatens the livelihoods of everyone in the village)

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(The entire village is slowly eroding away…losing houses with each storm)

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(Handing out sweeties to the kids)

We checked into Jakes boutique hotel – hard to believe that I worked from here as a Peace Corps volunteer twenty-five years ago…I’ve known Jason (the owner), the staff and the greater Treasure Beach community for half of my life! I’ve missed the people, the food, the fresh sea air and the simple way of life in Jamaica. I easily reverted back to my routine of waking up at the crack of dawn, walking up and down the streets to greet everyone, and then drinking coffee at the bakery (which has switched owners and locations several times over the years).

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(Fisherman)

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After a long, casual breakfast of ackee and saltfish, we’d slowly work our way to Frenchman’s Beach until we hunkered down at Eggy’s place. It’s always a treat when Eggy cooks up his famous fresh fish. And eventually, we’d wind up at Jack Sprat for sundowners. Not a bad way to spend the days…

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(Love the children of Malawi)

For my actual birthday, my oldest and dearest friends from Treasure Beach came to Jack Sprat to help me celebrate, including Miss Ruby, Troy, Andy, Rebecca, Ronda, Joshua, Guilty, Preston, Kimberly and even Eric Leverson, another Peace Corps volunteer from long ago, who flew to Treasure Beach for the occasion.

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(Tulbagh – outside of Cape Town)

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(Vineyard in Tulbagh)

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(The beauty of the wine country)

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(Attending a wedding in Tulbagh)

We ate conch soup, curry lobster, chicken rice & peas and brown-stewed fish, all my favorites. Jason organized a birthday cake with champagne! Pure bliss. And to top off the night, a bonfire on the beach…I couldn’t imagine a better way to mark this milestone!

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(Elle and Kristo’s gorgeous wedding)

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(Flower girl)

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(Stunning backdrop for a wedding)

As we sat on the beach, I reflected on my life. How fortunate I’ve been. I’ve done more in my life than most will ever do in their lifetime. I have the luxury of calling many places home…Jamaica, Malawi and South Africa. I’ve bridged cultural divides and forged close friendships with people from diverse backgrounds. I’m comfortable conversing with anyone – from village chiefs to US Ambassadors to the most vulnerable populations, including injecting drug users, orphans and other marginalized groups.

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(Howick Falls)

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(Durban)

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(uShaka Village)

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(Durban Beachfront)

I have many deep, meaningful friendships. A husband I adore who loves me and accepts me for who I am; four gorgeous dogs that mean the world to me; and a family that is loving, supportive and always there for me…

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(Nicholas and Lane)

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(Nicholas and Lane’s Wedding)

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(Congrats to the bride and groom)

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My heart is full. Fifty years of love, adventures, good times and bad! Meanwhile, as I get older, my desire to be near family grows stronger. So after nearly fifteen years of living overseas, we have decided to move back to the states!

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(International Women’s Day)

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(The RHAP Ladies)

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(Remarkable women of USAID)

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(Parliament Building)

I’ve accepted a position with FHI360 as Deputy Director, Strategic Information, of a USAID-funded global award that focuses on achieving epidemic control (of HIV). I’m excited about this upcoming challenge, albeit nervous about the transition. Meanwhile, we have much to look forward to upon our landing.

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(Soweto Bike Tour)

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(Friends)

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(Lebos Soweto Backpackers)

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(Bike Tour)

We bought a new house, sight unseen, in Silver Spring, Maryland! We’re finally home owners – only took fifty years! I’m ecstatic about putting down roots and creating a new home. We lucked out and found an incredibly unique place with an acre of land. The dogs will be elated with their new space.

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(Friends in Pretoria)

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(Maria and Amy)

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(Joshua)

I’m also hoping that my new job will entail travel to both Africa and Asia, which gives me some comfort as we prepare to wrap up our lives here in South Africa. Hard to believe that we leave Pretoria two weeks from today! Yet, seven years in South Africa has been a good ride!
We’re saying good-bye to Karabo Asara Orphan Center this weekend…which will surely bring me to tears. We’ve grown and nurtured this community for more than five years! I want to thank all of you who have donated time, money, food, clothing and gifts in-kind to this lovely organization. We are all incredibly grateful for your generosity.

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(Friends)

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(Chico and Pablo)

As they say in Malawi, Tiowanana (until we meet again)…

Much love,
Amy

2 comments to Fifty Years Strong!

  • Edwin M

    Personally grateful to see an accomplished Reuben. He is really grown up.

    All the best back in the US. You have done great work in this part of the region.

  • amy

    Thanks Edwin! And so great to hear from you…am grateful that our paths crossed at CDC long ago! Hope all is well…and please continue to keep in touch!

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