(My DQA counterparts from USAID and PAC)

My life continues to be intoxicating. This past month has been exceptionally exciting, with flash floods, typhoons, and coastal ‘hot spots’; followed by Hillary Clinton’s historic visit to Hanoi.

(Scene captured around Hanoi during the floods of July 13, 2010 – Photo: Craig Mackintosh)

As part of my job, I’m now conducting monthly Data Quality Assessment/Quality Improvement site visits. As such, I went to Nghe An Province in the North Central coast of Vietnam to look at several of our FHI-funded projects, including their prevention programs focusing on Female Sex Workers (FSW) , Injecting Drug Users (IDU) and Voluntary Counseling and Testing (VCT); and their Care and Treatment facilities providing Antiretroviral Therapy (ARV) and Community Home Based Care/Orphans and Vulnerable Children services.

(Hillary Clinton signing PEPFAR’s Partnership Framework)

I must say that I am truly happiest when I’m in the field seeing first hand how our HIV program is operationalized. This particular province was more rural, and definitely poorer than what I’ve experienced up to now. Ironically, I felt more at home here than anywhere else in Vietnam (hmm…not sure what that says about me).

(Amy & Nemat @ Press Club)

Regardless, everyone I met was incredibly down-to-earth and friendly – from the managers of the Provincial AIDS Committee (PAC), to the peer/health educators, to the doctors and nurses at Dien Chau District Hospital. In fact, they insisted that we be their guests at every meal! Yet, when dining in a rural province, one never knows what to expect – oh wait, except for large quantities of alcohol!

(Cultivating shells on the beach)

I’m simply blown away by the sheer volume of alcohol that is consumed. Lunch includes a steady stream of free-flowing beer; and they ante up for dinner, with endless shots of locally brewed rice wine (similar to grain alcohol). I became somewhat concerned when the heaviest drinker in the group turned out to be our driver!

(District Hospital)

And despite Vietnamese food, in general, being delicious, for some reason it borders the grotesque when in the field. A steady stream of snails, tripe, frogs, clams, eels, small fish (eaten head, tail and all), and other unrecognizable animals were placed before me. I was thrilled when I saw a huge platter of chicken, yet my excitement immediately turned to dismay when I discovered that it was boiled chicken – tough, rubbery, and flavorless! Needless to say, I ended up drinking more than eating…

(Staff at Vinh’s Women’s Health Center)

Despite my culinary disasters, the highlight of my trip was hanging out at the local ‘hot spots’, or in this particular instance, brothels, to observe peer educators teach female sex workers how to use a condom. Prostitution is illegal in Vietnam – as such, I didn’t take any photos of the girls…, which is exactly what they were! Bright-eyed, innocent teenagers! So young! It saddened me to no end to think that these beautiful kids have to resort to prostitution for survival.

(Vendor on the beach)

Interestingly, sex workers consistently complained about the quality and quantity of the condoms that we were distributing. First, peer educators only distribute six condoms per sex worker per month! That’s how many clients they see in a day! Second, they expressed their dissatisfaction with the quality of the condoms, stating that they were too thin and that they break too easily! Even if there is no validity to their claim, this perception can greatly impact their behavior. Ultimately, there’s a fine balance between offering free condoms vs. social marketing, in which we empower women to purchase condoms to protect themselves.

(Glass-blowing factory in Hanoi)

By in large, it was a fabulous trip to the field. Each outing reveals both data quality concerns as well as systemic issues that need to be addressed!

(Not the most impressive beach, but the coastline nonetheless)

On another note, I’m heading back to Africa next week! I’m presenting at a conference in Cape Town, South Africa, followed by a brief return trip to Malawi. I’m looking forward to getting back to my African roots, running the HASH, dining at Blue Ginger, and seeing all my old friends in Lilongwe.

Much love,
Amy

(Kyle, Amy & Victoria)

One of my dear friends, Victoria, has been living in Singapore (and Hong Kong) for the last decade. Now that I’m living in the same region, we’ve been trying to figure out both when and where we could see one another. As luck would have it, I needed to fly to Phnom Penh to renew my Vietnamese Visa, which presented a wonderful opportunity for the two of us to meet in Cambodia.

(Amy & Vic at Russian Market)

Remarkably, it has been almost fifteen years since we’ve seen one another, yet it felt as if no time had passed as we immediately embraced and chatted as if we were together just yesterday. True friendships are ageless! We laughed and we cried as we caught up on each other’s lives. So much has happened over the years, yet the crux of who we are remains unchanged.

I cherished our time together, perusing designer boutiques and art galleries, dining at the Foreign Correspondence Club, exploring handicraft stalls at the Russian Market and admiring the beautiful Wats interspersed throughout the city.

Plus, we took full advantage of our quaint little hotel situated along the vibrant banks of the Tonle Sap. We had sundowners on the balcony (a lovely African tradition) while watching the world go by below.

(Amy & Vic at Udong)

We even took a tuk-tuk 41kms North of Phnom Penh to Udong, the ancient capital of Cambodia from the latter stages of the Khmer Empire. A number of kings were crowned here, including the current King of Cambodia, Norodom Sihamoni.

(Monks at Udong)

(Stupa at Udong)

(Monks at Udong)

(Selling hats at Udong)

And as an added bonus, my friend, Kyle, went out of his way to meet up with us daily! I still marvel how the two of us from Prairie Village, Kansas ended up living half way around the world! I feel so fortunate to not only reconnect with Kyle after all these years, but also to consider him a good friend. I absolutely adore him (and his family) and admire all that he has accomplished!

(Kyle’s Family)

By and large, the weekend invigorated my soul, especially since it’s been difficult to feel connected in Hanoi. I’m sure this will change in time, but for now I’ll continue to treasure quality time with dear friends.

(Traveling in style in Phnom Penh)

On a separate note, I feel compelled to pay tribute to Molly Ferguson Gottlieb as this 4th of July weekend marks the 10th anniversary of her untimely death. For those of you who don’t know, while attending a family gathering on Lake Travis, Molly went windsurfing, fell, and was subsequently run over by a boat.

(In Loving Memory of Molly Ferguson Gottlieb)

It’s hard to believe that a decade has passed; yet her memory, her spirit and her inner beauty continues to live within all who knew her. I still think of Molly often; I still hear her laugh, feel her energy, and miss her charming antics. Molly exuded warmth and a charisma that was infectious.

I’ll never forget the first time we met almost twenty years ago! I had recently moved to Austin and didn’t know a soul. One afternoon, she appeared on my front doorstep and asked if she could show me around town. We spent the day hiking along the greenbelt with her dog, Jake, kayaking on Lake Austin, eating Mexican food at Chuys and just appreciating each other’s company.

(Molly in Nepal)

I’ll never forget this kind gesture – of reaching out to a total stranger in a new city in order to make him/her feel welcome in his/her new home. Part of my love of Austin stems from this first encounter…she immediately placated all of my fears and anxieties about my move to Texas. More importantly, she let me know that I had a friend.

(Miss Molly)

Molly certainly had a knack for making people feel loved and wanted. Even though Molly was taken from us way too soon, I’m comforted knowing that she experienced life to the fullest and was surrounded by friends and family who truly loved her. Molly’s tragic death also serves as a reminder not to take life for granted. Even though we may feel safe in our daily routines, they don’t grant us immunity against life’s tragedies. Please hold your loved ones and let them know how you feel.

(I love and miss you…)

Be safe this holiday weekend.

Sending much love,
Amy