Happy New Year!
Darren and I meticulously planned a lovely three week getaway to Sri Lanka, granted in the true spirit of John Steinbeck’s famous quote, “the best laid plans of mice and men oft go astray”… Apparently, Mother Nature had something different in mind. Heavy monsoons, flooding and landslides took Sri Lanka by storm, displacing over 650,000 people within a very short time-span.
We experienced eighteen straight days of rain, witnessed landslides, and incredulously watched as trees toppled from the hillside and crashed onto the road, literally in front of our car. We considered ourselves lucky as we got out to investigate the damage on the road! Within minutes, Sri Lankans wielding heavy axes began to chip away at the tree, in desperate hopes of clearing the way. I was impressed by their quick response time and resourcefulness…and then suddenly out of nowhere a bulldozer miraculously appeared to expedite the tree removal process.
Alas, a typical day on the road as we traversed the island. However, we embraced the situation and made the most of our holiday!
We started off in Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo, which I actually loved! Sri Lanka in and of itself has a fascinating yet complicated history, and was ruled by the Portuguese, Dutch and British in differing periods of time. It was also ravished by civil war from 1983 – 2009, a conflict fought between the Tamil Tigers, an independent militant organization and the Sri Lankan government.
Sadly, Sri Lanka was still battling their prolonged civil war when the Indian Ocean tsunami struck on December 26, 2004, which claimed the lives of over 35,000 people and displaced over a million others. Interestingly, we were there for the 10th anniversary of this horrendous disaster. We met several people who shared their personal stories…I can’t even begin to fathom what happened that day, the extent of the devastation, the sense of fear, and the overwhelming loss of life!
As we ventured towards Galle, I couldn’t help but think about the train that was derailed traveling from Colombo to Galle during that fateful day, when the force of the waves swept away at least 800 lives. It is believed to be one of the worst train disasters in the world.
It’s amazing to see how much work has taken place rebuilding the country, yet remnants of the tsunami in certain areas still remain. Unfortunately, the conflict in Sri Lanka has slowed down rebuilding efforts. And tensions appear to be on the rise as Sri Lanka gears for presidential elections, which happen this week! We couldn’t help but notice the Presidential posters of Mahinda Rajapaksa plastered all over the country, from small road-side shacks to huge highway billboards. Unfortunately, there has been an increase in violence amidst predictions of a win for the opposition. Guess we’ll just have to wait and see…
Meanwhile, getting back to our holiday…
I truly loved Colombo, and will keep an eye out for work opportunities in the future. We spent several days exploring the city, hitting the famed Pettah Market on Bandra Road, visiting the Murugan Hindu Temple, and walking around Beira Lake. We even got to photograph one of the most beautiful brides I’ve ever seen at one of the Buddhist Temples.
From there, we headed towards Galle, an endlessly exotic town with a wonderful collection of Dutch-colonial buildings. We had a heyday at the Galle Fort area, shopping at boutique art galleries and dining at lovely restaurants.
And we even ventured off to the famed coastal town of Unawatuna.
In Mirissa, our driver convinced us to go whale watching – which, in theory, sounds fabulous! However, in reality, was by far our most miserable day! Rough seas, huge swells, combined with seven hours on a dreadful boat turned into a mega puke-fest by EVERYONE on board.
Honestly, the tour operators had no business taking people three hours one way to catch a very small glimpse of the great Sperm Whale. And to add insult to injury, we were against the current returning to the dock, tacking on another four hours of misery! Needless to say, Darren and I were both disappointed with the whole endeavor…
Next stop, Yala National Park. Now coming from South Africa, we knew not to expect too much on safari, but the beauty of the birds pleasantly surprised us. I felt as if I was channeling my mom as I identified each species, the Carmen bee eater, the Lilac-crested roller, and the peacocks. I was in awe of the peacocks – such majestic birds! And I realized that I had never seen them in their natural habitat. In fact, for some reason, I didn’t think peacocks could even fly (perhaps it’s because they clip their wings in captivity….and up until now I’ve only really seen them at zoos).
By this stage, the rains were quite heavy – so we ditched our plans to head to Uda Walawe National Park and opted to go straight to the hills of Ella (and it was on this particular drive that we witnessed the landslide).
Ella was our favorite hill-country village, and was quite the happening hot-spot among tourists. It’s famous for its stunning view through Ella Gap and for its endless hikes through tea plantations, temples and waterfalls.
We miraculously had a break in the weather, granted for just the morning, but that was long enough to hike to Little Adam’s Peak, a focus for pilgrimage for more than 1000 years! And one can easily see why! Breathtaking panoramic views everywhere you looked…
The rest of our days were a bit of a bust, with torrential downpours day and night…so again, we packed up and headed further north to Nuwara Eliya, often referred to as “Little England”. Years ago, Nuwara Eliya was the favored cool-climate escape for the hard-drinking English and Scottish pioneers of Sri Lanka’s tea industry. We hung out at The Grand Hotel for high tea and enjoyed the luxurious setting and ambiance.
Despite the dismal weather, I entertained myself by taking photos out the car window as we drove from destination to destination. In fact, my favorite pictures from the trip were of the tea plantation workers, where we literally pulled over on the side of the road, grabbed our umbrella, and set off in the rain to take pictures of the stunning scenery and passersby.
Kandy, the second largest city in Sri Lanka, was our next stop granted, the heavy rains prevented us from truly exploring all that the city had to offer. However, we stayed at an amazing hotel, The Richmond House – http://www.therichmondhousekandy.com/eng/photo/index.html ). We sat on our balcony and looked out upon the amazing views of the delicate hill country, with its heavy mist interspersed throughout the hillside.
And it was also here that Darren arranged a romantic top floor balcony dinner on Christmas Eve. Before our first course arrived, Darren got down on one knee, produced the most gorgeous ring ever, and asked me to marry him. Overwhelmed with emotions, tears of joy bursting forth, I gladly said yes! So stay tuned!!! We are planning a Cape Town wedding for December 19, 2015!
Perhaps this will be the impetus to get more friends and family to visit this amazing country! So much to see and do in South Africa…
We happily left Kandy and ended up going further north into the worst of the weather to explore the Ancient City of Sigiriya, a Unesco World Heritage Site that has been inhabited since the 3rd century BC. The ruins of the capital were built by King Kassapa (477 – 95) and lie on the steep slopes, leading up to a granite peak (Lion’s Rock) standing 180m high. The rock is also adorned with ancient frescoes, which has brought universal acclaim to the site of Sigiriya.
Due to flooding and landslides, we altered the rest of our itinerary and headed straight to the beach! Ironically, the local beaches in Negombo – dirty, crowded, and situated very close to the airport – became our new favorite destination! The clouds finally parted and we experienced our first sunset of the trip!
For New Year’s Eve, we went to a very secluded eco-lodge, Bar Reef Resort, in Kalpitiya. And right next door was the lovely Udekki Resort…and the owner, Glen, was the highlight of our stay! Incredibly hospitable, gracious, and an amazing blues guitar player/singer, he made us feel right at home, despite the fact that we weren’t even staying there – a testament to his warmth and good-nature.
We rang in the New Year with a lovely couple from London. We chilled out by the bonfire on the beach and watched as the kids shot off fireworks and twirled sparklers!
Our final days were spent back in Negombo, exploring the fish markets, souvenir shops and restaurants. By and large, a phenomenal trip!
We will keep you posted in terms of our wedding plans, but hopefully people will mark their calendars now for next Christmas/New Years in South Africa.
Sending much love to all,
Amy & Darren