(Amy and Russell @ Chapman’s Peak)

As 2012 draws to an end, I can’t help but to reflect on all the wonderful changes that have occurred in my life this past year. I wrapped up an amazing experience in Vietnam (almost three years, to be exact), spent quality time with my friends and family in the states (and even had the luxury of attending my 25th high school reunion), moved to one of the most gorgeous countries in the world, South Africa, and met an amazing partner.

(Kite Surfing in Cape Town)

(Sundowners at Blue Peter Hotel)

Perhaps there is some truth to Chinese Astrology and its predictions of the ‘Year of the Dragon’, which has been characterized as unpredictable, flashy, dramatic and full of life! And in the true spirit of the dragon, this past year turned out to be a wild ride of good fortune and adventure.

(Strolling along the beach)

I still marvel over the fact that South Africa is home! And after only four months of living in-country, I’ve managed to return to Cape Town for my third trip…only this time Russell was able to join me. We spent several days in Bloubergstrand along the shores of Table Bay (approximately 25 kms north of Cape Town). Russell used to live in this area, so we hit up his old hangouts – including the famed Blue Peter Hotel for sundowners! Nothing beats a gin and tonic while relishing the views of Table Mountain and Robben Island!

(Waterfront @ Cape Town)

(Waterfront)

We were also able to meet up with one of my dear friends from Malawi, Alisha, who has been working in Cape Town for close to three years. We made the trek back through Chapman’s Peak – which, in my opinion, is one of the most stunning drives in the world! The scenery is simply spectacular everywhere you look!

(Loved seeing Alisha)

(Chapman’s Peak)

And in an effort to make the most of living in Pretoria, Russell and I have committed to exploring different day-trip destinations on the weekends! Our first stop, Soweto, one of the largest townships developed under the apartheid system and the home of former President, Nelson Mandela.

(Stunning Scenery)

(Russell, Alisha and me)

(Russell)

I was surprised by the dichotomy of Soweto, a sprawling city inhabited by over two million people, with homes ranging from extravagant mansions to makeshift shacks. We started off our Soweto tour at Orlando Towers, a vertical adventure facility in a decommissioned cooling tower now famous for bungee jumping.

(Russell and Rob at Orlando Towers)

(Bungee jumping)

(Russell)

(Orlando Towers)

As I debated whether or not to muster up the nerve to jump, I kept hearing my mother’s voice in my head, screaming “ASSHOLE”….a bit of an inside joke in my family, but it’s in reference to those asshole tendencies where we intentionally put ourselves in stupid situations! So in the end, brains won over brawn…and we simply watched the other ‘assholes’ jump from the bungee platform high above.

(Soweto)

(Soweto’s Orlando Towers)

Another outing that’s becoming quite common is Hartbeespoort, a small resort town situated on the slopes of the Magaliesberg mountain and the banks of Hartbeespoort Dam. We’ve come here on numerous occasions to hike, peruse the art galleries, and to dine at the many restaurants. However, on this particular outing we took the Hartbeesport Aerial Cableway to the top of the Magaliesberg – which offered stunning panoramic views of the dam and the surrounding area.

(Hartbeesport Aerial Cableway – views at the top)

(More views)

Another fabulous weekend getaway is the lovely Rhino and Lion Nature Reserve in the heart of the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site. This private game park just one hour outside of Pretoria boasts more than 600 animals, including 30 species of game and 200 bird species.

(Wild Dog)

(Cheetah)

Endangered species, such as wild dog and white lion, has been introduced into the park. And there’s even a section where you can play with lion and tiger cubs!

(Lion)

(Lions)

Russell and I splurged and paid to play with white lion cubs – which were remarkable! One cub was infatuated with my camera bag and started to play with it. Granted, it quickly got out of hand when I noticed that the lion did not want to let my bag go! And seeing that it contained my money, credit cards, keys, etc., Russell had to pry it out of the grips of the lion! I now jokingly say that he fought off a lion to save me… which technically is correct ☺

(Playing with the white lion cubs)

(Let go of my bag, please!)

(No Seriously…let go!)

In between our outings, I spent a week in Durban meeting with partners and conducting site visits. What truly struck me was the sheer magnitude of the HIV epidemic in Kwazulu Natal (KZN), which is the epicenter of the epidemic. I went to Ethekwini and Ugu Districts, where 40% of the population is HIV positive! That is not only INSANE, but also mind boggling!!!

(So sweet)

(Making eye contact)

(Loved this little guy)

(Zebras)

And to add to the complexity of the disease – another startling statistic that was presented to us by the Ministry of Health (granted, I am still unclear as to its source) was that 42% of girls in Ugu District LESS than 12 years old are raped. And that’s 42% of REPORTED rapes – meaning the percentage of children being raped is probably even higher…think about that…almost half of all prepubescent girls are raped – robbed of their innocence, their youth, and their health!

(Beach in Durban)

(Fishing in Durban)

(Crowds at the beach in Durban)

Sadly, many people still believe the misnomer that having sex with a virgin will cure HIV/AIDS! My heart broke as I dwelled on this fact. How can a country with such intense beauty be riddled with such ugliness and violence?

(My lovely colleague and friend, Ozius)

(“Take our photo…”)

And as my mind raced with the cultural implications of this statistic, the acceptance of rape as a part of life…. it invoked a deep fury from within….it also reminded me of my Peace Corps Jamaica days when my closest friend while living in the bush outside of Montego Bay, Rashima – a 13 year old girl, was raped, impregnated, and dropped out of school before she reached 14. So tragic…as the problems are deeply rooted within the culture!

(More colleagues in KZN)

These thoughts were fresh on my mind as we approached our next health clinic. Right as we turned into the rural facility, a car quickly pulled into the lot with a woman 8-months pregnant who had just swallowed a bottle of bleach. As it turns out, this is a common practice in an attempt to abort the baby and to commit suicide.

(With our partners, MATCH)

I felt helpless as one of our partners (a registered nurse) jumped right into the scene to assist this unconscious woman into the hospital. Again, I was heartbroken just thinking about the plight of this poor girl….to be pushed to the point of desperation where poisoning herself and her baby seemed like a reasonable option!

(Beach in Durban)

(Eating my first bunny chow)

Before we left the facility, we tried to check on her prognosis to no avail. I felt utterly deflated trying to fathom the predicament of so many women in South Africa. And it also put my life into perspective….I am truly so grateful for what I have….more specifically, options! Something that most of us take for granted…

(Rietvlei Nature Reserve)

(Russell)

Going into the holiday season, I was even more conscientious of the importance of relationships and family. And seeing that my family is far away, I was grateful to be included with Russell’s for the holiday festivities.

(Rhino)

(Gorgeous sky)

(Zebra)

As a present to us, Russell bought the Cadillac of all Braais – an amazing monster of a grill, with 6 stainless steel burners, one side burner, a heavy-duty A/C rotisserie kit…the works! And it certainly came in handy as we had his entire family over for a traditional Xmas braai…I loved meeting his parents and spending time with his boys…such a great family!

(Our new super fancy braai)

(And Russell’s super cool rooftop tent – we are ready for some serious safaris)

I hope each of you enjoyed the holidays, surrounded by family and loved ones! And wishing you all a happy, healthy New Year.

(Russell’s family…his parents and his sons)

Much love,
Amy