Eric and I are continuing our adventures across Malawi. We just spent the last five days at Cape Maclear chilling out at one of my favorite spots in the entire country! Cape Maclear, a World Heritage Site as well as a national park, combines the beauty of the lake and its natural environs with the hustle and bustle of Chembe Village.

(The Tailor in Chembe)

I’m starting to feel like a local in this corner of the world, especially as I walk down the beach and say hello to familiar faces, often being greeted by name in return.

(Reuben)

(Amy and Reuben)

Over the years I’ve become quite fond of one child in particular, Reuben, who holds a special place in my heart. I ‘discovered’ his photographic eye on my first visit to Cape Maclear and now delight in not only seeing his beautiful smile but also turning him loose with my camera.

(Amy and Eric - Photo taken by Reuben)

(Another Reuben Photo)

(And another Reuben creation)

One morning he shyly asked if I could help with his school fees. Before I could give an answer, I wanted to speak to his family directly to ensure that any money provided would actually go towards his education. So hand-in-hand, Reuben led me through the village and up the small path that led to his house.

(Fisherman outside of Cape Maclodge)

(Eric interacting with children on the beach)

As it turns out, Reuben, the youngest of eight is the only child who has not received a proper education. My little heart went out to him as I listened to his brother, Havent, explain how his father, a poor fishermen, couldn’t afford to send Reuben to school and that his future had been weighing heavily on their hearts and minds.

I noticed the dichotomy between Havent’s English speaking abilities (obviously well-educated) and Reuben’s (who only speaks Chichewa).

His family was genuinely warm, caring and loving – and I honestly believe that any money donated would be spent towards school fees and uniforms – and not just squandered. As such, I gladly handed Reuben’s father the 15,000 Kwacha (or the equivalent of $100) and only hope that this opportunity begins the transformation of Reuben’s life.

(Reuben’s Family)

(Reuben’s Dad)

Now that the main road from Lilongwe to Cape Maclear has been somewhat paved, I will be able to follow-up with my ‘investment’ more frequently. Ideally, Reuben will need school fees not just for this year but for many…I’d love to provide that steady source of income that would not only ensure quality education but also a chance to earn a decent income as he gets older.

(Chilling out at Otters Point)

What a great way to start off the New Year – to provide hope and change for one person’s life. In return, this symbolic gesture also renewed my hopes and desires for change in 2009.

(Boats in Lake Malawi)

(The road from Dedza to Monkey Bay)

And I must say, it’s been great ringing in the New Year with my best friend, Eric! He and I became friends during our Peace Corps Jamaica days over twelve years ago and have remained close ever since. What a gift to spend time with someone with whom you have a shared history as well as an inherent understanding of the different facets of each other’s lives. For this, I am truly grateful.

(Amy and Eric)

I wish you all a happy, healthy New Year! And that 2009 brings great peace, happiness and prosperity into each of your lives.

Sending much love,
Amy

(Music on the beach)

Two days before Eric arrived in Lilongwe we decided to change our Christmas plans from the beaches of Mozambique to the rugged plains of one of Africa’s finest wildlife sanctuaries. With 60 different animal species and over 400 species of birds, I think we chose wisely!

We loaded our gear in the car and made the six-hour journey (which is normally four) across brutally washed-out roads until we reached our final destination, South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. The drive itself was harrowing as it necessitated 4-wheel drive the last 125 kms, but well worth the white knuckles.

(The road from hell)

I’ve now had the luxury of experiencing this corner of the world in both the wet and dry months and have witnessed pronounced seasonal changes. Despite the sheer abundance of wildlife in the dry season, I prefer the lush richness that only the rains can offer. The landscape morphs into a green winter wonderland with verdant rolling hills, thick grass and signs of new life in the air.

We arrived at Flatdogs Camp on Christmas day, just in time for the 4pm night drive. This was Eric’s first safari – not a bad Christmas present if I do say so myself.

(African Cape Buffalo)

(Zebra)

Within the first thirty minutes we came across elephants, hippos, crocodiles, impala and even a pride of lions! Granted, the lions were just sleeping on the side of the road – somewhat anticlimactic.

But we did see a leopard just after sunset – my very first time for spotting this magnificent cat. However, I’m still waiting to see this beast hanging out in the trees during the daylight.

And I couldn’t help but think of my Mom as I ticked off the numerous bird species flying overhead, e.g., . lilac crested rollers, malachite kingfishers, yellow-billed stork, sacred ibis, crowned crane, and the African fish eagle to name a few.

(Saddle-billed Stork)

(Yellow-billed Stork)

(Blackheaded Heron)

(Southern Crowned Crane)

(Open-billed Stork)
On Boxing Day, we went on two more game drives. Unfortunately, our vehicle got stranded in the mud on our night drive and had to wait until we could be rescued by another truck! At least we weren’t surrounded by any wildlife that could pose as a threat, so really, at the end of the day it provided yet another source for a great story.

(Stuck in the mud on a night drive)

(Hyena)

We are now back in Lilongwe resting and gearing up for tomorrow’s road trip to Cape Maclear, Lake Malawi. I showed Eric all the hotspots this afternoon in and around town (sadly enough, it only takes one day), including the market in Old Town and a few of my favorite local restaurants, shopping centers and bars.

(Drinks at sunset)

(Amy, Eric and Malene)

Sending much love and happiness,
Amy

As I sit on my balcony gazing out towards the Indian Ocean, I realize just how much I love my job and life in Africa. I am currently in Dar es Salaam attending an Electronic Medical Record (EMR) Workshop sponsored by WHO. How fabulous to feel embraced by this community – to walk into a plenary session only to see so many familiar friendly faces.

(My view from the hotel - White Sands)

We spent the last three days delving into topics such as monitoring and evaluation, interoperability, data use, patient identification, and patient care. Nineteen African nations are represented, offering an array of lessons learned and insight from the field. Aside from the knowledge gained by these face-to-face interactions, I am enjoying the company of my colleagues.

(Friends at the conference - Chris, Carl, Janise, Fitii, and Eva)

(Amy on the beach in Dar)

I am also proud of the work being done in Malawi, which is continuously referred to by other countries. Considering our budget, we are truly on the cusp of numerous innovative developments – primarily the point-of-care touchscreens. In fact, we are in the process of developing our national Electronic Data System scale-up plan for antiretroviral therapy, building a central repository/data warehouse within the Ministry of Health, and exploring public private partnerships with the telecommunications industry.

(Exploring the alleys of Stone Town)

(Boats in Stone Town)

(Child in Stone Town)

I’ve also managed to combine work with pleasure. One of my friends from the conference joined me on a little excursion to Zanzibar. We took the morning ferry from Dar to Stone Town and had one day to explore all the highlights that Zanzibar has to offer – which isn’t nearly enough time. Granted, it was long enough to appreciate its cultural heritage as we wound down the small alleys discovering shops, bazaars and mosques interspersed throughout the town.

(Wandering through the streets of Stone Town)

(Beach in Nungwi)

(Early morning in Nungwi)

We took a taxi to Nungwi, a small fishing village that straddles the Northern tip of the island. The beaches here are stunningly beautiful – with quintessential white sands and crystal blue waters. I relished in its beauty as I walked up and down the shore line.

(Beautiful beaches in Zanzibar)

(On the beach)

And I ate seafood galore! After living in a land-locked country (with an unreliable cold chain), one needs to take advantage of their geographic locale!

(Anchors in low tide)

(Searching for food)

I am now back in Malawi gearing up for the holidays. My friend, Eric, will be visiting from Austin. I can’t wait to show him around this beautiful country – granted the rainy season is in full swing. We’re going to take a ‘little’ road trip to Pemba, Mozambique.

(Roaming along the beach in Stone Town)

I hope everyone has a wonderful holiday season. Sending much love and happiness…

(spices of Zanzibar)
Amy

Thanksgiving this year was far from traditional. I decided to fly to Mozambique to meet up with Paula and her family for a little road trip up the coast. Approximately ten of us (including another couple and their children) loaded our gear in the car and caravanned from Maputo to Tofo Beach (or literally, to Barra approximately 12 kms outside of Tofo). After seven grueling hours of being squeezed in between two car seats, we finally reached our destination – an incredible beach bungalow situated on one of the most secluded and pristine beaches along the Indian Ocean!

(The view from our bungalow)

(The gang: Moha, Polly, Khadija, Tilelli, Dihya, Paula, Brett, Lucas and Nico)

Thanksgiving was spent admiring dhows on the sea, building sandcastles on the beach, and exploring the environs. In fact, I ‘discovered’ a phenomenal resort built on stilts tucked away in the tidal bay of Inhambane. This stunning get-away was truly breathtaking.

(Fishing on the docks at Flamingo Bay)

(Flamingo Bay Resort)

And our Thanksgiving meal consisted of fresh shrimp, lobster and Moroccan turkey kebabs! Quite the feast!

(Lucas)

And, no trip to Tofo/Barra is complete without the perfunctory ocean safari! Unlike snorkeling or diving, an ocean safari is where you go out on the boats with a ‘spotter’ who looks for whale sharks, mantas, dolphin and the like, and as soon as something of interest is spotted, all persons jump overboard with snorkel gear in tow. In this fashion, I was able to swim with ten whale sharks and twenty dolphin!

(Nico and Tilelli)

(Paula and Brett and Tofo Scuba)

(Getting ready for the ocean safari at Tofo Scuba)

I must say, whale sharks are magnanimous creatures! These gentle giants can grow up to 40 ft in length and can weigh up to 14 tons – amazing to think that they are filter feeders! Granted, it’s somewhat daunting to watch these fish swim towards you with their mouths wide open – my entire body could easily fit inside.

(Whale Shark - borrowed photo from: www.zoozoo2.com - I didn’t have my camera with me on the ocean safari)

But the highlight of the trip was playing with all the kids, Nico, Lucas, Tilelli and Dihya. Plus, I am grateful to have had quality time with Paula’s boys!

(Lucas, Dihya, Tilelli and Nico)

As I sit in Paula’s beautiful home in Maputo and reminisce about our long-lasting friendship, I realize just how thankful I am to have so many wonderful people in my life! I hope each of you had a lovely Thanksgiving – surrounded by family and friends.

(Dihya on the beach)

Much love to all,
Amy

(our private beach)

(Sunset at Flamingo Bay Resort)

Life continues to remain interesting. First, one of my dear friends from Austin, Tina Applin, passed through Lilongwe as part of her 45-day overland adventure tour. In between searching for rare mountain gorillas in Rwanda, discovering the beauty of the Serengeti, awing the brilliance of the Ngorongoro Crater, witnessing the magic of Victoria Falls, etc., etc., etc., Tina’s enormous truck stopped in Lilongwe to restock supplies! I took advantage of their two-hour delay and met her at the Shoprite parking lot (only the finest of tours for Tina in Malawi). Despite the visit being so short, I absolutely loved spending time with her!

(Tina en route to Zambia)

I took her by my house where we cooked up some Tex-Mex (thanks to my consumable shipment). We hung out on my back patio while desperately trying to catch up on each other’s lives! I was sad to say good-bye yet grateful to have had the opportunity to see her.

Work is moving right along. We finally submitted our COP at 5pm on Friday! And I spent a good portion of the week following up on discussions stemming from the Standards Workshop. In fact, it just so happened that there was the 6th International Conference on Open Access to ICT (information communication technology) for Social Economic Development in Lilongwe.

I snuck into the first day of the workshop and made some fabulous contacts with organizations currently forging public/private partnerships to address ICT as a tool to bring developmental change to Malawi. By collaborating and utilizing emerging networks being developed for other government sectors, the more likely the chances we have at succeeding. After all, taking on the entire health information infrastructure is no easy task!

(Running on the beach)

On Thursday, we continued to celebrate Obama’s victory at a full moon party. I still marvel at the amount of interest that this Presidential campaign has generated – not just from Americans and Africans, but from all persons around the globe. Malawi has approximately 50 embassies in-country, ranging from Iceland to China to Japan to Ireland to Germany to Belgium to France, etc. It doesn’t matter where someone originates, he or she is extremely knowledgeable of the issues at hand. Ironically, I was wondering just how many Americans are up on politics in other parts of the globe?

(Roberto, Christine, Emily and Andrew at the Full Moon/Obama Victory Party)

And this weekend was somewhat indicative of what is now becoming my weekly routine. Friday night was spent with friends at a dinner party, followed by an early morning run on Saturday (a small group gets together at 6am for a long run and brunch). After the run, I spent a few hours working and then went to the lake mid-afternoon.

Kate, Ann, Lillian and I chilled out at the A-frame, cooked some fish and played a mean game of Scrabble. Finally, Sunday is truly a day of rest…

(Alisha and Amy at Ewa’s birthday party on Friday night)

Am getting ready to head to Mozambique for Thanksgiving to meet up with Paula and Brett! We are heading to Tofo Beach to go diving with the whale sharks – am getting very excited.

(Amy and Kamal at Full Moon Party)

Please continue to keep in touch! And I hope all of you have a wonderful Thanksgiving surrounded by friends and family!

(Lillian - Kate’s friend visiting from DC)

Much love,
Amy

I must say, this past week marked some major milestones both historically and personally! First, Malawians and Africans across the continent are elated by Obama’s triumph. In fact, President Bingu wa Mutharika, the President of Malawi, recently wrote a letter to Obama stating, “Dr Martin Luther King had a dream that after the hurdles of slavery that Africa passed through to develop America, one day black people will take a lead in America. Today, you [Obama] have fulfilled that dream. The victory is for Africa.”

(Amy, Alisha and Ann at Oliver Mtukudzi)

For the first time in years, I am proud to say I am American –‘we’ finally did the right thing by voting for the most qualified candidate who is not only intelligent but also delivers messages of hope rather than fear.

(The Nation on November 6, 2008)

And in true Malawian fashion, the “IT’S OBAMA!” headline that appeared in our local paper, The Nation, was coupled with another noteworthy article of national importance, “My Wife Cut My Private Parts.” David, it reminded me of our first day in Cape Town years ago when we picked up the newspaper at one of the finest hotels and read, ‘Enraged hippo rips man’s face off’. Seriously, the local newspapers provide a constant source of entertainment.

(Kristine and Mayke)

Unfortunately, I missed all of the election excitement. As all of my friends huddled around the TV watching CNN election coverage at the Chameleons Pub (from midnight to 6:00 am), I was preparing for my big Standards Workshop – which was a huge success, not to mention a turning point in my career.

(Famed Zimbabwean Musician, Oliver Mtukudzi)

After eight months of experiencing one setback after another, I finally pulled off the 3-day workshop (followed by an all-day GIS Training). Experts from Geneva, Oslo, Atlanta and Washington DC descended upon Lilongwe to participate in these important events.

(Christine, Amy and Carrie)

For a brief background in terms of what I am trying to accomplish, as part of the Paris Declaration, Malawi has agreed to the ‘three ones’ principle, i.e. to establish one agreed National HIV and AIDS Action Framework, one national AIDS coordinating authority, and one agreed country-level monitoring and evaluation system to monitor progress made in the fight against HIV and AIDS as well as to allow international comparison between countries.

(Dale Mosier (Peace Corps Country Director), US Ambassador Bodde, His wife, Tanya, and Jeanne Mosier)

Currently, many vertical program-specific systems, such as Antiretroviral (ART) patient monitoring, malaria and tuberculosis surveillance, are being developed. To address the ‘third one’, it is important to understand the different systems being used to collect and to report data to the district and national programs; and to explore potential integration of systems into one, comprehensive system through the use of national standards.

This workshop brought together 60+ key stakeholders representing health program managers, leadership from the Ministry of Health, donor organizations and system developers in order to a) introduce the concept and importance of data standards to a wider audience within the health sector; b) to explore the current Health Information System landscape, including resources and policy; c) to discuss critical issues related to standards and tools, including National IDs, facility IDs, governance structures, confidentiality and security; and d) to organize technical working groups to implement ideas generated from the workshop and to move forward with a strategic plan.

(Peter)

By in large, I feel an amazing sense of accomplishment – I have begun to leave my legacy as I fastidiously work to lay the foundation to achieve an interoperable health system framework. Granted, for now I have only garnered buy-in and support from the Ministry and other development partners – the bulk of the work has yet to begin.

(Cassandra and her brother, Josh, cook up a storm for 75 Malawian co-workers)

On another note, the weekends continue to offer opportunities to appreciate friends and various activities in Lilongwe. Oliver Mtukudzi, a famed Zimbabwean artist, performed last weekend at the golf course (the venue was an odd choice). And this weekend was spent just relaxing and catching my breath from this past week’s events.

(Gwyneth, Amy and Cassandra)

Please continue to keep in touch! I always love hearing from you.

Much love,
Amy

For those of you familiar with PEPFAR speak, those two words, ‘COP Season’, are enough to send shudders down your spine. The COP – or the Country Operating Plan, is the tome that each PEPFAR country develops that describes major accomplishments to date and outlines the strategic vision for the next Fiscal Year down to every single program activity, targets and dollar amount.

Ironically, the task at hand appears to be quite reasonable yet for some reason the exercise devolves into a nightmare – with endless conversations back and forth with partners, with the Government of Malawi, with the USG (US Government) team, and with OGAC (Office of Global AIDS Coordinator).

(Sadhna and Ewa)

Each person/agency has their own agenda, wanting to push forward their pet projects or believing their particular area of focus is the direction the country needs to be heading. So what appears to be a fairly straight-forward request becomes convoluted into an endless sea of egos and battles over the budget.

And to add to the stress, the Annual Progress Reports are due (which in and of itself is an ordeal). Plus, the Standards Workshop that I have been trying to get off the ground for the last eight months is only one week away! I am hopeful that it will be a huge success granted the timing couldn’t be worse. I have five days to help finalize the COP and APR, and to put together a three-day workshop!

Needless to say, work is keeping me insanely busy. But, I’m still finding some time to squeeze in activities that keep me sane.

(Ann, Amy and Emily at Kamuzu Dam)

I’m still riding my bike on the weekends. Yesterday’s excursion included a ride to Kumbali Lodge, exploring the vast estates where Madonna once stayed.

And Kate and Carl were kind enough to give me the keys to their A-Frame on the lake. So Sadhna, Ewa and I had a peaceful working weekend at Lake Malawi. It’s so beautiful and serene here, chilling out on the front porch with the sounds of waves crashing upon the shore. The sounds are identical to that of the ocean – which often gives me cause to ponder the fact that the body of water before me is a fresh water lake.

(Swimming at Lake Malawi)

Other news, I’m flying to Maputo for Thanksgiving! My friends, Paula and Brett, recently moved to Mozambique and extended an invitation to join their family on a little road trip up the coast to Tofo Beach. I am truly looking forward to getting out of Lilongwe, especially over the holidays. I’m still struggling with my feelings and emotions (I definitely have good days and bad) so a little change of pace will be welcomed.

And on the home front, most of you know that I am deathly afraid of spiders. I’ve slowly grown accustomed to the large flat spiders that are ubiquitous in Malawi. But the other day I opened my front door only to find a tarantula literally ten inches long – big, fat, and hairy! I totally freaked…

Please continue to keep in touch!

Much love,
Amy

One of Malawi’s biggest tourist events occurred this weekend – the fifth annual Lake of Stars Music Festival. International and African artists shared the stage at Livingstonia Beach, attracting record crowds to this sleepy little part of the country.

(Friends at Lake of Stars)

(Alisha, Katie, Cassandra, Jennifer and Amy)

I must admit the music was an eclectic mix of musicians and DJs, vacillating between acts such as the Black Missionaries (Malawian Reggae Band) to the UK’s famed turntablist DJs, the Scratch Perverts. Regardless of the genre blaring through the sound system, we all managed to dance the night away.

(Alisha, Andrew, Emily and Ladan)

The setting itself was simply stunning, with the stage nestled up against the dramatic rocks that hug the coast of Lake Malawi. And the logistics of the festival were better than I had anticipated, with numerous food stalls, beverage stands, craft vendors and even adequate toilet facilities – which are essential considering the vast sea of pitched tents adjacent to the festival grounds.

(Amy and Chippy)

Fortunately, my dear friends Kate and Carl have a house right on the lake, which made for a perfect hub throughout the weekend. Approximately twenty of us spent our days chilling out at the A-frame, swimming in the lake, reading on the beach, and cooking meals together. By in large, life in Malawi, although certainly fraught with challenges, continues to be rewarding from both a personal and a professional perspective.

(Kate and Carl)

(Todd and Cassandra)

I made my usual jaunt up and down Senga Bay, taking photos along the way. Unfortunately, I don’t have too many pictures from the festival itself – I didn’t want to carry my camera while boogying on the dance floor.

(Cargo boats in Senga Bay)

Please continue to keep in touch.

Much love,

Amy

I’ve rediscovered my passion for cycling over these last few weeks and truly feel as if I am finally on the road to recovery! My heart still aches every time I think of Andy, but I am beginning to feel stronger and stronger with each passing day.

(Kani, Amy and Ben)

On Sunday mornings, a small group of us have been getting together to explore the countryside, meandering down random red dirt lanes and trails just to see where they go.

(Amy in the village)

The whole experience has been extremely therapeutic, especially when I am greeted with beaming smiles from Malawians who wish me a ‘peaceful journey’ as I ride by; or the children who scream ‘Mazungu’ (or the equivalent of Jamaicans hollering ‘Whitey”) as I pass them on the road.

(Cycling in the village)

And I can’t help but smile when I see other cyclists on the road, carrying huge loads of firewood, charcoal, sugar cane, goats or even chicken strapped to their bikes. It makes you realize that a bike is probably one of the most prized possessions in the village – certainly the most reliable and affordable (gas is approximately $8/gallon).

(Kani)

This week, we cycled from Bunda to the Kamuzu Dam, criss-crossing through maize fields and sugar plantations while venturing from village to village. Our final destination, the Kamuzu Dam, is where the Lilongwe Sailing Club meets. We had a lovely braai (Afrikaans for BBQ), then cycled back to Damien and Kani’s place in Bunda. I was a bit deterred from kayaking as there was an enormous hippo frolicking in the water extremely close to the shore. It’s amazing what is considered ‘normal’ when one lives in Africa.

(Damien BBQ on the grill)

Please continue to keep in touch. I still get lonely at night…this house is too big for one person.

Much love,
Amy

What a week! Malawi hosted the Regional Strategic Information (SI) Meeting – which probably means nothing to most of you. But, it was a fabulous opportunity for information sharing and knowledge transfer in the fields of Monitoring and Evaluation, Informatics and Surveillance (wow – this sounds just like my dissertation topic).

(Bridge along the ride)

SI persons from 19 African nations descended upon Lilongwe to share lessons learned and best (and sometimes, worst) practices. We have so much to learn from one another – yet rarely have an occasion to hear from our neighboring countries. Plus, it’s important to build relationships with your counterparts – nothing compares to face-to-face interactions.

(Malawi College of Forestry)

I presented on my work related to Health Management Information Systems – and even took the Director of SI – PEPFAR on a site visit to Lighthouse to see the Electronic Data System operating in the field. We are trying to secure millions of dollars for this project and truly welcomed the opportunity to showcase the work that we’ve been doing in this tiny part of Africa.

(Love Life Youth Center)

By the time the weekend rolled around, I was more than ready to take some time for myself. I’ve been getting back into mountain bike riding these last few weeks. Last weekend, I met some friends in Bunda and cycled around the villages in the countryside. It was reminiscent of my cycling days in Jamaica and brought back fond memories.

(Mother and Child)

This weekend, we piled the bikes in the car and headed to Dedza to cycle the trails throughout the Forest Reserve. Once again, I was reminded how much I love being on my bike, navigating the terrain on two wheels. Granted, some of the ride was a bit technical – and my skills are definitely lacking. The fear of falling kept me at minimum speeds for a good portion of the ride, but we all had a great time.

(Beautiful smile)

I also managed to arrange my schedule so that I could ride in the morning and conduct a photo shoot in the afternoon. Concern Universal (the same organization that hired me last year), met me in Dedza and drove me along the ‘border district’ to shoot some of their youth projects in HIV.

The drive was interesting, with the right side of the road Malawi and on the left, Mozambique. I was extremely curious about border issues (especially since immigration is such a controversial topic in the US). The Mozambican’s are not included in Malawi’s census, yet they access all of their health services. However, for al intents and purposes the area is really considered one big village.

Again, I was in my element as I shot away. For the first time in a long while, I truly felt happy. If only that moment would last…

Please continue to keep in touch. I really enjoy hearing from all of you!

Much love,
Amy

September 11th is an extremely symbolic day…seven years ago my dear friend, Berry, was taken from us when her plane crashed into the World Trade Center. For years, I struggled with the anniversary of her death – how could such a beautiful life be taken from this world so prematurely in an act that seemed so senseless?

(Dzalanyama Forest Reserve)

But last year on this very day, Andy’s long awaited passport finally arrived. Five months of separation and anticipation paid off – we were finally on a path towards a life together in Africa.

(Waterfall at Dzalanyama)

How fabulous to think that September 11th no longer had to be a day of mourning, but one of hope and happiness. My dreams were about to become a reality – to be reunited with the man I loved. Granted, I had no idea that my dreams would be so short-lived.

Like Berry’s untimely death, our marriage ended prematurely, long before our relationship was able to flourish or to realize its full potential. I am having a difficult time grasping where things went so terribly wrong…to the point where our love has turned to hate (at least, that’s what I gather from Andy’s behavior).

And again, this day continues to be symbolic – as the day we file for divorce.

(Camping)

And despite the anger, the frustration, the confusion and the sorrow, I still want what’s best for him…but am sad to know that I am not included in that vision.

I do think every relationship serves a purpose – and with Andy I learned to love openly and freely with all my heart…and with as much pain as I have endured, for that I am grateful…

I hope one day we will be friends. It’s hard enough to lose my husband, but I wasn’t anticipating losing my best friend in the process.

It’s hard to believe that I’ve only been back in Malawi for ten days! My world has drastically changed yet eerily remains the same. I’ve come home to an intense work schedule, to my friends, to my dogs, and to a daily routine that I’ve grown accustomed to while Andy’s been away these last few months. The only difference now is knowing that he’ll never return.

(An unusual display from Malawian women - who stripped off their clothes and started to swim)

(Playing in the water)

My days are quite busy but I do feel so incredibly alone at night. However, my dear friend, Everett, reminded me that I am only without Andy – not alone; and that I may feel lonely at times in life, but will always be surrounded by loving, supportive people.

I hold his words dear to my heart. My friends/family, both near and far, have been amazing – a steady source of strength, always providing words of encouragement or lending an ear when I need it most.

And I can’t even begin to express my gratitude to my friends in Lilongwe. For the first time since Treasure Beach, I truly feel a part of a community.

Other aspects of my life are going quite well. Things at work are finally falling into place. My projects are taking off – I’ve even managed to reschedule the data standards workshop with WHO and the Ministry of Health – which is now set for November.

Plus, Malawi is expected to double its budget in the next fiscal year – so the office is abuzz strategizing how to spend the money. And, the Electronic Data Systems (one of the projects that I have been involved with) has been suggested as a priority for the country. Needless to say, I am excited about the future.

And I’ve been focusing my attention on things that make me happy, especially photography. I’m going to resume the photo shoots that I had begun with Mark (granted, he is now in Mozambique). Each Sunday, Hendricks (Mark’s old gardener) will arrange a photo shoot in someone’s home in the village. I am looking forward to picking up where Mark left off (although I am going to miss his technical expertise).

Finally, I spent this weekend with the girls in Senga Bay. I loved hanging out with the ladies, drinking wine, cooking meals together, chatting about life, and simply appreciating Lake Malawi.

I spent hours walking up and down the beach, talking to the locals (I really need to improve my Chichewe), and taking photos. Once again, I was reminded just how much I love it here.

As an aside, the photo shoot that I conducted last year with Concern Universal has finally been published (http://www.concern-universal.org/images/uploads/File/PDF/MalawiHIVAidsStrategy.pdf ) – and one of my photos was published in the 2009 Returned Peace Corps Volunteer Calendar!

Please continue to keep in touch. I enjoy hearing from all of you.

Much love,
Amy

So much has happened over the last few months. Unfortunately, I neither have the energy nor the desire to fully describe what has transpired. However, the process of updating my blog is somewhat cathartic – so I will briefly summarize the highlights.

(Craft Market in Maputo)

I attended a week-long project officer training in Maputo, Mozambique and instantly fell in love with the capital city. Situated along the coast on the Indian Ocean, Maputo has been heavily influenced by the Portuguese but with splashes of various different cultures, including Arab, Indian and Chinese. However, when walking around the city the aura is more reminiscent of Latin America than Africa.

(Mindy and Amy at Maceneta Beach)

I spent seven days feasting on fresh seafood, admiring the beautiful beaches, and relishing in the company of good friends. Mark and Mindy, two former colleagues from Malawi, have moved to the CDC office in Maputo – so it was lovely to see where they lived and to have a personal tour of the city. Mindy was kind enough to take me to Macaneta Beach – located approximately an hour or so from Maputo, including a short ferry trip across the Nkomati River.

(Friends of Mindy’s at Macaneta Beach)

After training, Mindy, Amy Ginsburg (my co-worker in Malawi) and her daughter, Izzy and I drove to Swaziland where we attended the 3-day Bushfire Music Festival. The countryside from Maputo to Swaziland was gorgeous and I was quite impressed by the music festival itself – extremely organized and professional.

(Amy and Izzy)

There were some amazing acts, including the Soweto String Quartet (South Africa), Timbila Muzimba (from Mozambique), Tarika Be (from Madagascar) and Ladysmith Black Mambazo (also from South Africa – but I must admit, I didn’t see them on Sunday…my friend Cassandra drove up from Jo’burg on Saturday and we spent all day Sunday exploring some of the sites in Swaziland).

(Soweto String Quartet)

However, throughout all of these amazing experiences my thoughts centered on Andy, who has remained in the states for the past three months. Ultimately, Africa has taken its toll on our marriage - he refuses to return to Malawi and I refuse to remain in a marriage while he lives with someone else a continent away.

(Heidi, Ann, Clint and Cassandra at Bushfire Music Festival)

Of course, things are much more complicated – but the events have led me down an emotional rollercoaster, vacillating from anger and frustration to sorrow and finally acceptance. I am truly grieving the loss of my hopes and dreams of a life together with Andy. We took a chance when we married quickly, and I will always cherish the loving moments that we shared. But I also realize that if we‘d had more time to get to know one another, perhaps we would’ve realized that we were simply incompatible.

(Secrets)

I said good-bye to Andy in Atlanta a few days ago and am returning to Malawi tomorrow. I am actually looking forward to going ‘home’.

(Saying Good-bye…)

I need to be strong and to remember that this truly is for the best.

(Sami, Amy, Maia and Ben at Stone Mountain)

Much love,
Amy

Malawi’s beauty continues to amaze me. After an emotionally charged week, my friends insisted that I join them in their jaunt to the small town of Mulanje, where the Mulanje Massif (with an elevation of 9,855 ft or 3,002 m) looms over the tea-growing district of Malawi below.

(Andrew, Emily and Michael at the start of the race)

Aside from the stunning scenery and beautiful hiking and trekking trails, the purpose of our visit was the twelfth annual anniversary of the famed Mulanje Porters Race. This race was unlike any I’ve ever seen. In fact, I would hesitate to call it a ‘race’ since ‘extreme sport’ appears to be more appropriate.

(Children along the race)

(More children…)

The 25km course led the 300 runners straight up the mountain along rocky hazardous paths into elevations high enough to not only affect the upper level air flow but also the weather (cold, sleet and rain). The course, which began in Likhubula (in fact, we stayed at the Likhubula Forest Reserve), ascended to the Chambe Plateau (2500m) then across to Lichenya, then back to the start, would’ve taken a ‘normal’ person 11 hours to hike. Yet, these runners/porters sprinted up and down the mountain in a little over 2 hours!

(Start of the race)

And, the majority of the Malawian runners were either barefoot or ran in shoes on the verge of collapse.

(Unbelievable shoes)

After the runners sprinted out of the starting gate, I explored the amazing Massif on my own (walking along the same path as the runners). I was acutely aware of my elevated heart rate as I hiked up the mountain and could only marvel at the athletic feat of the participants.

(Women crossing the river in the porters race)

(Carrying heavy loads)

The trail itself was gorgeous! I admired the morphing terrain as I hiked from grasslands to deep, forested ravines to gushing waterfalls, all the while enjoying the igneous rocks around me. These precious moments feed my soul, reaffirm why I live/work in Malawi, and give me strength to move forward.

(Hiking in Mulanje)

Ironically, my hike to just the waterfall and back prevented me from seeing the first runner cross the finish! However, I did see Tereza Master (the same marathon runner who was sponsored to compete in Austin) hauling ass down the mountain! She was the first woman to finish.

(Tereza close to the finish)

And I can’t say how proud I am of Emily, Andrew and Michael – who all competed and finished this incredible race. Many kudos to each of you!

(Andrew crossing the finish line)

After the race, we drove to Zomba where we stayed at the Ambassador’s Cottage. We spent the evening huddled by the fire, sipping wine, and reliving our glorious day.

(Michael, Emily and Andrew at the dam)

(Children at the Dam)

On Sunday, we hiked around Zomba – primarily for the athletes to loosen their muscles but also to relish in the beauty of Zomba. I am so grateful that I tagged along for the ride.

(Emily and Andrew)

(Emily and Amy)

Much love to all,
Amy

This past month has been a whirlwind. So much has happened that it’s too exhausting to even begin to describe – so hope you’ll settle for a general overview.

(Sami, Scott, Marshelle and Ben)

Returning to Austin truly felt like ‘home’. I LOVED spending time with friends and family – yet the days flew by! Instead of feeling sated with my USA fix, my whole being is craving that feeling of connectedness, the innate comfort of being surrounded by familiarity. Just driving my little Miata filled me with pure joy…especially as I navigated roads free of obstacles such as chicken, goats and throngs of people weaving in and out of traffic.

(Sami, Amy and Andy)

Plus I relished in all the recognizable landmarks – eating at the Hula Hut, walking around town lake, drinking coffee at Austin Java and now the newly opened Fair Bean (Andres, your coffeehouse is amazing), and shopping at HEB, Central Market and Whole Foods!

(Atop Sandy Beach)

And talk about the ultimate in consumerism, I had the pleasure of arranging a consumable shipment to Malawi and spent thousands of dollars on household goods. I explored every single aisle at Costco – which took quite a while! Items as simple as parmesan cheese, jalapeno peppers, black beans, tortilla chips and salsa are a hot ticket item here! Meanwhile, David and Siham’s back room looks like a convenient mart (sorry guys, still waiting on the paperwork for the shipment).

(David and Siham)

I also marveled over the fact that the entire city is virtually wireless! It’s amazing what you take for granted…access to the Internet with a fast connection to boot! Life is sweet!

(Jazzy, Mayday, Sami and Maia)

On the flip side, upon my return to Malawi I discovered a new ‘web filter’ on our server! I no longer have access to all my favorite sites, including Flickr, Myspace, Facebook and You Tube to name a few. So if any of you are waiting for a response on any of my ‘social network’ sites, please take note that I am currently searching for a solution.

On a positive note, I feel extremely fortunate having such amazing friends. Even though I’ve been away for over a year, it felt as though I had never left! What a beautiful thing - to be able to pick up a relationship where you left off years ago – as if the transition was seamless. Plus I am truly grateful that so many of you made a conscious effort to see me while I was in Austin! Bobby, thanks again for throwing the BBQ! Eric, thanks for your hospitality. Matt, Brandy, Kat, Everett and Tina, thanks for your loving friendship throughout the years. And Kathryn, thanks for putting me up for the night in DC. I apologize for not naming each of you individually, but please know how much I enjoyed and appreciated seeing you.

I also had the pleasure of spending time with my Chihuahuas, Chula, Chico and Pancho! I love those little guys! Andy and I spent a lovely afternoon hiking around Enchanted Rock – although I think it was too hot for the dogs.

(Chula, Chico and Pancho)

(Chilling out on Enchanted Rock)

And the main reason for our return to the states was to celebrate Marshelle’s Bat Mitzvah. We had an enormous family reunion in Maine and spent ten days visiting relatives in Bangor and Portland! Deane and Grace surprised us all by getting married while everyone was together! They tied the knot atop a lighthouse overlooking the Atlantic.

(Deane, Marshelle and Grace)

But the highlight was seeing all my nieces and nephews (although truth be told, they were a wee bit rambunctious and wild). Imagine four kids under the age of five in conjunction with my mom – whose energy level alone ranks right up there with the best of them! Talk about a recipe for endless chaos!

(family reunion)

Children also mark the passage of time. I feel as though I have remained the same for the past twenty years, yet during my brief time in Malawi my nieces and nephews have morphed into different beings! Their personalities are beginning to shine – with complex vocabularies and thought processes.

(the kiddos during the wedding)

My Uncle Steve and Arlene never cease to amaze me! Their kindness and generosity are indescribable. Thank you both for everything!

(Uncle Steve and Arlene)

And for those of you who have never been, Maine is one of the most gorgeous states! Aside from the delicious lobster, scallops, and steamers that we feasted on almost daily, the countryside and coastline are spectacular.

After Marshelle’s Bat Mitzvah in Bangor (probably the largest STERN gathering in our lifetime), everyone headed to Acadia National Park where we rented a house on the ocean. Bar Harbor is breathtaking, from the vistas atop Cadillac Mountain to the rocky cliffs adjacent to Sandy Beach to the quaint artsy boutiques and rugged outdoor sporting goods stores lining the streets.

(Downtown Bar Harbor)
By in large, it was a fabulous visit.

Now I’m back in Malawi and feeling nostalgic for all my friends and family. Plus, Andy decided to remain in Austin for a few more months to work and to spend time with his family – which just makes my return to Lilongwe that much more difficult. It’s been extremely lonely returning to this house without him.

However, I am realizing that I have incredible friends here, too. Lilongwe is starting to feel familiar and like ‘home’. I’ve had a steady stream of friends stop by my office or drop by the house – just to check in and say hello. Every meal has been a social gathering, complete with a few coffee breaks thrown in. I must say, I feel truly blessed having such a strong network of support throughout the world.

(Hanging out at Uncle Steve’s)

Please continue to keep in touch…I’m going to use these next few months to focus on work and my dissertation. However, it’s always great to hear from each of you!

Much love,
Amy

Traveling in Africa is neither easy nor logical. Now, I want you to visualize the map of Africa as I begin to describe my circuitous route from Lilongwe to Kampala – what should have been maybe a two hour direct flight dragged out for 19 hours!

The CDC driver picked me up at my house at 8am for our 10:30 flight – so far so good.

From Lilongwe, we flew due EAST to Lusaka (why might you ask??? To pick up more passengers, of course). From Lusaka, our flight was delayed for an hour or so before we headed towards Nairobi. I’m not sure if any of you have traveled thru Nairobi, but it’s airport is pretty dismal. I had nine lovely hours to kill before our delayed flight took off at 11:30pm.

(Heidi and Ann – from South Africa)

While going through security, my backpack was flagged for its suspicious contents. The Kenyan security guard whipped out one of my tampons and began to frantically wave it in my face screaming, ‘What is this’? I was totally taken aback…was he serious? I calmly yet confusingly replied, ‘it’s a tampon’. He had no concept of that particular word…and continued to scream at me (now, in his defense - and I apologize to all my environmentally conscious friends - the tampon was disguised in a plastic applicator). Fortunately, a friend of mine from Zimbabwe placated this riled-up guard by hollering out, ‘cotton….it’s cotton’. Sheepishly and embarrassingly, the guard returned my tampons to its respective pocket and allowed me to proceed to the gate!

(Derek – with CDC Zimbabwe)

Meanwhile, I was en route (along with several thousand other participants) to present at PEPFAR’s annual Implementer’s Meeting in Uganda! Kenyan Airways overbooked all of its flights to Entebbe and were bumping people right and left off the earlier flights, leaving a pretty impressive crew waiting for its midnight departure, including the Director of CDC GAP and Ambassador Mark Dybul! Ironically, all the stress and unnecessary delays culminated into a 45-minute flight from Nairobi to Entebbe. Needless to say, we could have rented a car and driven to Entebbe in half the time!

(Zimbabwean Dollar – note the expiration date!)

The Implementer’s Meeting itself has been pretty remarkable, albeit exhausting. The opening ceremony consisted of leaders in the field of public health, including Ambassador Dybul, the head of UNAIDS’ Program on HIV/AIDS, the head of The Global Fund to Fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria, the special envoy of the UN Secretary General for HIV/AIDS in Africa, and finally, the President of the Republic of Uganda – The Honorable Yoweri Kaguta Museveni!

(Amy and Amanda)

Hearing Museveni speak was priceless! For those of you unaware, Museveni played a critical role in Uganda’s success of reversing the tide of HIV/AIDS. In the mid-1980s, President Yoweri Museveni responded to the emerging HIV crisis in Uganda swiftly, embarking on a nationwide tour to tell people that avoiding AIDS was a patriotic duty, and that they should abstain from sex before marriage and then go on to remain faithful to their partners (Zero Grazing Campaign) and to use condoms. During this same time period, Uganda’s Health Minister announced to the World Health Assembly that there was HIV in Uganda. As a result, the first AIDS control program in Uganda focusing on the provision of safe blood products and on educating people about the risks of HIV, was established in 1986.

(Poster Presentation: “Implementation and Adoption of WHO ART HL7 Messaging”)

Regardless of the President’s previous accomplishments, the man is a bit of a loon! His speech was riddled with erroneous facts, interspersed with his fiery opinions on such topics as male circumcision, capacity development, and the importance of re-thinking prevention strategies. All of his points were poignant, yet the manner in which he conveyed their meaning leaned more towards the comical.

(Sara and I at my poster session)

On another note, several gay and lesbian activists were arrested during the conference while attempting to highlight Uganda’s neglect of HIV prevention for men who have sex with men. According to a recent publication in the BBC, “There has been concern for some time that Uganda is not only failing to acknowledge the HIV prevention needs of gay men and other men who have sex with men, but pursuing aggressively homophobic policies.

Studies have recently shown that gay men in Uganda have an HIV prevalence level of 26%, but are not a target for HIV prevention. Guidelines for PEPFAR, one of the leading organizers of the implementers’ meeting, clearly state that men who have sex with men should be a priority for HIV prevention. However, the Ugandan health ministry has complained to UNAIDS about the inclusion of the needs of gay men in HIV prevention initiatives. This action was defended by a representative of the country’s AIDS Commission who said “the practice of homosexuality is illegal.”

(Hotel Serena)

Just as a follow-up, Mark Dybul (the head of PEPFAR) authorized the registration of the activists at the meeting, and ensured that arrangements had been made to release the protesters from police custody.

The conference has finally come to an end. I spent the entire week in Kampala and never ventured beyond the walls between the two hotels that hosted the conference – except for my one brief outing in between sessions to the craft market down the street. As a result, I don’t have too many photos from my stay.

(The craft market)

I leave in a matter of days (Tuesday) for Austin. I am so ready to return home and to see Andy - not to mention my friends and family in that part of the world! I’ll try to figure out a night where we can have a communal gathering of sorts – perhaps at Hula Hut or another outdoor locale. I’m open to suggestions ☺

Much love,
Amy

I must say, it certainly feels great to be back in the good old USA. No culture shock – just an innate appreciation for this materialistic society! Andy and I have been loving the plethora of restaurants, bars, shopping centers and grocery stores!

Ironically, I returned to the states to attend ‘preparing for work overseas’ training (I know, somewhat moronic considering the fact that I had to fly from Africa to prepare myself for life overseas). Regardless, it’s been a great way to spend time with Sami & Scott, not to mention my beautiful niece and nephew! Plus, I’ve been able to catch up with several of my friends from Emory. Needless to say, it’s been a busy week.

The highlight of the trip has been spending time with Maia and Ben! They are both so incredibly delightful. Maia is smart beyond her years – we’ve been having political discussions regarding the primary elections and on whom she would like to see as the democratic nominee for President. Maia firmly believes that a woman should be in the Oval Office and is an enormous Hilary fan – but also likes Obama, “as long as a Democrat wins the presidential election”. Not a bad political commentary for a four year old!

(Maia the soccer star)

And Ben exudes sweetness and is brimming with personality. At two, he’s already quite the ham!

(Uncle Andy and Ben)

(Amy and Ben)

Finally, we invited friends over for Mother’s day for a lovely brunch. I met so many of my friends’ children for the first time! It amazes me that we attended Emory ten years ago! Where have all the years gone?

I’m flying back to Malawi tomorrow (minus Andy) but will reunite in one month when I return to Austin.

(Maia and Andy)

I look forward to another reunion in Texas!

Much love,
Amy

My second week of Situational Analysis is almost complete. I can honestly say that this has been the most exhausting yet rewarding experience since my arrival in Malawi. To date, Chimwemwe and I have visited over twenty sites - and we have our eyes on three more health facilities tomorrow before we finally return to Lilongwe and relinquish our duties to other team members.

(Chimwemwe)

(Views from Livingstonia)

I am currently writing from Ntcheu Boma - a small rural town in the Central/Southern region of Malawi. Unlike the North, in which we stayed at a lovely hotel (the bar is set pretty low here in Malawi) - I am now staying at a mosquito infested dive and am already dreading the restless night ahead of me! Regardless, I can put up with this miserable environment for one more night! A small sacrifice considering what I have gained from this experience.

(Chameleon in Livingstonia)

Last weekend, Andy drove to Mzuzu to meet me! I ended up having a meeting on Saturday morning that lasted until 2pm! But that didn’t damper our determination to explore Livingstonia - named after the famed missionary and explorer, David Livingstone.

(Many women often crochet in Malawi…)

Missionaries from the Free Church of Scotland founded the town of Livingstonia in 1894. Interestingly enough, the Livingstonia Mission originated in Cape Maclear in 1874 but relocated to higher ground due to malaria. After several failed moves attributed to various health factors, Livingstonia finally settled in the mountains between Lake Malawi and the Nyiaka Plateau. Needless to say, the views from this region are simply spectacular!

(Ellie Click, Chimwemwe and Andy)

(Amy hiking)
Chimwemwe, Ellie, Andy and I piled in our car and made the trek up the treacherous road leading to the town of Livingstonia. We stayed the night at the Mushroom Farm Lodge - a backpacker’s haven! Platforms for tents were perched adjacent to the escarpment, offering surreal vistas of the mountains and lake below.

(Camping at the Mushroom Farm)

(Andy stopping for a Coke as we hiked to Livingstonia)

The next morning we hiked to the nearby waterfalls then worked our way to the town of Livingstonia. For being such a large ‘dot’ on the map, there’s not much to Livingstonia aside from the university (and of course, the mission hospital, museum and church). And the road leading to the town is truly horrendous - steep switchbacks winding up the mountain - leaving only a small margin of error before plummeting to the ground below. I can’t even imagine attempting this road in the rainy season! One needs a serious 4-wheel drive to navigate the terrain.

(Exploring behind the falls)

(More falls)

Chimwemwe went to school there and ended up knowing quite a few people! And since he spent years hiking through the bush in that region, we were able to take the foot paths throughout the mountains! My favorite part of the trip was stumbling upon a church in the middle of the bush and hearing the beautiful songs and beating of drums emanating from the doors within. I will always cherish these memories…the sights and sounds that best depict this amazing culture and its people!

(Little boy outside of Livingstonia)

(Church in the hills)

I will be heading to Atlanta May 4 - 14 for training…and then returning to Austin (and Maine) for a brief visit and family reunion in June! I hope to see a lot of you when I return to the states! And for those of you in Austin, I’m already plotting my Hula Hut outing. I can’t wait to have my Thai BBQ Fajitas, Chips and Salsa and Margaritas!!!

Much love to all,
Amy

This past week has been an eye opener! After ten months of working in Malawi, I’ve FINALLY had an opportunity to spend extended time in the field. I am leading one of seven teams that are venturing across the country visiting all of the HIV/AIDS facilities as part of the 2007 Situational Analysis. Ultimately, we are collecting data from HIV Counseling and Testing sites, Antenatal Clinics and Maternity Wards that are implementing PMTCT (Prevention of Mother to Child Transmission) programs, STI clinics, pharmacy/labs, TB Clinics and blood donor facilities.

(Mothers waiting at the ANC Ward - Mkoma Health Center)

This is an enormous undertaking - to put things into perspective, each team is visiting approximately ten sites per week for eight weeks - that’s 560 different facilities! And depending on how many services are available, one can spend anywhere from 2 - 8 hours at a site!

(Katete Mission Hospital)

On our first day, we traveled from Lilongwe to Mzuzu (approximately 4 hours North) and continued on to Mzimba District Hospital. There we met Raymond, the District Health